Category: Like a local

Where to eat and drink by the sea

The teams at the National Lobster Hatchery and EW Wines share their recommendations for venues offering great food and drink in great coastline locations…

Across Cornwall, the list of places to enjoy the finest food and drink is eclectic and increasingly sustainable. We asked some Cornish residents working in the wider industry – with their own produce and drink credentials – to reveal recommended venues.

The National Lobster Hatchery (NLH) is a standout organisation in Cornwall’s dynamic seafood scene. Founded in 1998, the charity’s focus is education, research and conservation. Its key conservation project is a pioneering programme to enhance the Cornish lobster population, working closely with the local fishing community.

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Image credit: National Lobster Hatchery

The NLH expert team rears lobster babies through their most vulnerable life stages, to improve survival chances by approximately 1000% above survival rates in the wild. This supports a healthy and sustainable lobster stock, and the local fishing communities, both now and in the future.

“Another champion of the seafood scene on the South Coast is the beautiful Hooked on the Rocks. Located overlooking Swanpool beach near Falmouth, this restaurant is perfect for a long lazy lunch overlooking a spectacular vista.”

Chief Operating Officer Nicola O’Donnell says: “For an up-close look at marine conservation in Cornwall, including a peek at our lobster maternity ward and nursery, you can join us in Padstow at our main hatchery site. A centre for all ages to learn more about marine biology, sustainability and, of course, lobsters.”

Seafood with sea views

Nicola recommends The Lobster Shed at Harlyn Bay for great, sustainable seafood by the sea. The lobster served at The Lobster Shed is caught off the coast of Padstow by local fishing boats, and the whole menu is sourced within a 25-mile radius.

“The Lobster Shed are one of our incredible fundraising partners and run our scheme ‘Buy one set one free’ – a great way for organisations and their diners to support sustainability.”

Image credit: The Lobster Shed

Keeping it local but with the sound of something more exotic, the restaurant’s Lobster & Camel pairs Cornish lobster with a Pinot Noir Rosé Brut from the Camel Valley.

“Another champion of the seafood scene on the south coast is the beautiful Hooked on the Rocks. Located overlooking Swanpool beach near Falmouth, this restaurant is perfect for a long lazy lunch overlooking a spectacular vista,” says Nicola.

Bar on the beach

Molly Gardiner, Communications and Admin Officer at the NLH, says the Blue Bar in Porthtowan is a great seaside spot any time; a café by day, with a bar and live music for the evening. “Grab a coffee or a pint and sit back, right by the beach. Siting there recently I saw about 50 dolphins out in the Atlantic. It’s a perfect stop off on a coast path walk or post-surf,” says Molly.

The team also recommend the Cornish Cream Teams available at Berryfield Tea Room, on the road down to Porthcothan Beach.

And to drink?

EW Wines, based at Indian Queens near Newquay was voted the best regional wine shop in the South West last year by wine magazine Decanter. One reason for the accolade is probably that it offers more than a quality selection of fine vintages.

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The company is on the journey to becoming a B Corp – a certification scheme for more sustainable business. And as well as special tasting events, you can call in for free wine tasting from a selection of 16 wines, with Jim Bass – EW Wines’ WSET (Wine & Spirit Education Trust) Diploma qualified lead educator – offering a guide to the wines in store too.

“For a picnic lunch, we’ll call in to Da Bara bakery for provisions and I’ll take along some of our new range of premium canned wine. We’ve got a dry Muscadet that is absolutely delicious.”

For anyone staying by the sea this summer, they’ve curated a coastal wine box which can be delivered to your door on arrival.

Image credit: EW Wines

When it comes to finding a great spot for a glass of wine with a view, Jim recommends packing a picnic and adding some cans of wine to the hamper.

Favourite spots for picnic lunch or dinner include Porth Island and Whipsiderry Beach, both north along the coast from Newquay. “We had a takeout dinner up on Porth Island recently and watched the setting sun, one of the best views I’ve had with dinner for a long time.”

“For a picnic lunch, we’ll call in to Da Bara bakery for provisions and I’ll take along some of our new range of premium canned wine,” says Jim. “We’ve got a dry Muscadet that is absolutely delicious; it’s the same quality as a bottle – light and crisp, with a little texture. And the canned Fleurie we stock is the first Beaujolais in a can I’ve tasted that I would recommend.”

For takeaway dinner, Jim recommends the filled homemade flatbreads and fried beignet potato sides served at Babu, tucked away on the Treloggan Industrial Estate in Newquay. For dinner out, The Secret Garden in the town isn’t to be missed, serving artisan pizza paired with organic and biodynamic wines. “You wouldn’t know it from the outside; the terrace is really cool and has an amazing view,” adds Jim.

Alternatively, want someone to cook for you? Check out our top 5 restaurants in Watergate Bay.

Found a favourite place by the sea for food and drink? Share your recommendation with us on social media, using @beachretreats and #bigreveal.

Huddle-up in a place for two, a walk from north Cornwall’s renowned beaches and eateries, or make the most of being together this summer, footsteps from picturesque picnic stop-offs. Where will you stay?

Board stories

From the far west to the overlooked south east, via the unmatched north, there’s a bay and a board for everyone. Keen board riders and paddlers reveal their chosen craft and coast…

Cornwall’s winding coastline reveals countless unmissable stops for enjoying and exploring the sea by board. Samantha Bruce and Georgia O’Carolan of Whitsand Bay Ladies Surf Club, Matt Hawken at Newquay Activity Centre, and Dan Bassett at Surf St Ives tell us which board they reach for and where they’re heading…

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Whitsand’s welcoming waves

Organised by the Adventure Bay Surf School, Whitsand Bay Ladies Surf Club was Georgia O’Carolan’s first surf experience. “Outrageously, I didn’t start any board sports in the water until joining the Club when I was 27 because I thought I was too old to learn, which I now think at nearly 30 is just beyond silly.

“Our swells might not come in as big and fierce as the north coast generally, but we’re a great surf destination when it’s in.”

“We have all ages, sizes and abilities in our club and it doesn’t matter how good you are, as long as you’re safe – which might mean a lesson or a lifeguarded beach – you belong there in the sea. My tip for a novice would be to just go out and do it!”

Image credit: Adventure Bay Surf School

Georgia – RNLI lifeguard – says her corner of Cornwall on the south east coast is a little quieter which can mean more choice and opportunities to catch waves out in the bay. “Our swells might not come in as big and fierce as the north coast generally, but we’re a great surf destination when it’s in, and great for beginners and intermediates.”

And when she is paddling out at Whitsand she opts for a Mick Fanning Sugar Glider, either 7ft 6in or 7ft. “It’s fast and fun, and the first time apart from a rescue board, I’ve used a single-fin board.”

Fancy staying in Whitsand Bay? Have a look at our Whitsand Bay holiday properties.

Image credit: Adventure Bay Surf School

Fellow Ladies Club member Samantha Bruce goes for the KORE 7ft 2 Fun board when she’s catching waves at Tregonhawke or northwards at Bude.

What makes a great surfing beach? “A long sandy beach, with minimal rocks, a short approach – so I’m not carrying my board for miles – and even better if there’s a coffee van or food shack for a refuel and hang after,” says Samantha.

Her preferred conditions are 3-4ft, slightly wild waves. “I enjoy the challenging conditions and having a laugh with the girls while navigating them,” she adds.

For first timers, Samantha recommends a small group or 1:1 lesson. “Speaking as someone who wanted to surf for years but was apprehensive, you’ll know instantly if it’s for you, then find a group to be part of.”

“At about mid-tide you can dot in and around Little Lusty through the rocks, and there’s even a secret cave to paddle through.”

Paddle north

“It’s beautiful and so peaceful – teaming with wildlife and amazing views. It can be difficult to find a good launch spot, if you don’t know the area, and it’s definitely worth knowing your tides, but it’s one of the best spots to paddleboard on the north coast.”

Matt Hawken, paddleboard instructor at Newquay Activity Centre, is talking about the River Gannel which meets the sea at Newquay. Staying with the whole family or all your best friends, everyone can enjoy stand-up paddleboarding along the Gannel.

Image credit: Newquay Activity Centre

“Because it’s so sheltered, it’s an awesome spot for all skill levels,” says Matt. “With the right tide and the best spots, the water barely moves and it’s great for enhancing your skills.”

Waterborne explorers can venture upriver to Trevemper or downriver to Crantock Beach, with a guided tour the best way to find the ideal launch spots and tidal conditions. A calm, laidback board choice, paddleboarding reveals views and coastline locations hidden when exploring on land.

Image credit: Newquay Activity Centre

As well as floating down isolated creeks along the Gannel, Matt recommends the expanse of Newquay Bay on a calm summer’s day. “It’s surprisingly sheltered for the north coast of Cornwall. At about mid-tide you can dot in and around Little Lusty through the rocks, and there’s even a secret cave to paddle through. And then down to Porth beach for a quick break and back towards the harbour. The water is crystal clear, the sun is shining, there might even be seals and dolphins enroute.”

Wood for waves

Surf St Ives’ Daniel Bassett chooses an Alaia, a fin-less style of wooden surfboard originating from Hawaii, for his board-based excursions.

Wooden surfboard crafters, Otter Surfboards, describe the Alaia as “a thin, narrow, solid wood surfboard with a round nose and square tail and, most importantly, no fins. They originated in pre-contact Hawaii where they were shaped from Koa wood left over from producing canoes and they were usually around 7-12 feet long. Modern Alaias usually come up between 5 and 8 feet long.”

Image credit: Daniel Bassett @surfstives

Daniel says he likes to be out on the Alaia at Godrevy, near Hayle, but is happy catching a wave along the coast as long as it is breaking on his left side as he glides towards the sand, known simply as a left.

Spacious beaches and September swells are the best conditions for Daniel who surfs to “escape the worries of everyday life and be at one with the elements.”

“I’d recommend spending time on a bellyboard for learning how to read the ocean and feel comfortable in the water, before progressing to surf-craft,” he says.

All along the coast, wooden bellyboards can be hired for free thanks to Surf Wood for Good. A bellyboard for acclimatising to the waves can be picked up for the day from just inland of St Ives Surf School at Little Goat Gruff. And there’s more than 10 locations across Cornwall to pick-up a borrowed bellyboard for wave-seeking elsewhere.

Read our blog on the best things to do in the sea in every season!

A secluded stay for two or a celebration pad for everyone, choose where you’ll stay for your chosen board time…

Klys drinks

A spiced cocktail from Curio, Christmas in a cup from Country Cordials and mulling nectar with the Cornish Mead Co, raise a glass to klys…

Diving deeper into klys, we sought out drinks with the potential to enhance the snug sensation captured by the Cornish relation to Denmark’s hygge. As we batten down the hatches on long dark evenings, these local producers create drinks that are both liquid warmth and fuel for the festive spirit.

Fancy staying in a holiday retreat with a hot tub? Check out our cottages with a hot tub for a relaxing getaway.

Image credit: Lily Egbers

Spiced and stormy

On stormy days, crowds gather at Porthleven to watch in awe as waves crash into the old harbour. This is an appropriate birthplace for Curio, a spirits company that endeavours to capture the sensory experiences of life by the sea: the wild, the moody, the calm.

“It makes me think of an evening sitting by an open fire, listening to the crackle, savouring the drink’s zesty taste and being completely absorbed in that special moment.”

Launched in 2012 by husband and wife duo, Rubina and William, Curio experiments with a range of flavours from harvested seaweed to hand-foraged samphire. This winter, Rubina recommends their cardamom vodka cocktail and sea salt caramel rum to ignite an internal glow that contrasts to the tumultuous weather outside.

“The cardamom vodka cocktail is made with cranberry juice and tonic water, garnished with cinnamon and star anise. It makes me think of an evening sitting by an open fire, listening to the crackle, savouring the drink’s zesty taste and being completely absorbed in that special moment.

Image credit: Lily Egbers

“Whereas I also love adding the salted caramel rum to a flask of hot chocolate for a walk along the beach. It’s the perfect, sweet touch that compliments the fresh air on a wintery morning. It just makes you appreciate your surroundings, what life brings you and all there is to be grateful for.”

Cordial cosiness

In a converted outhouse deep in the Tamar Valley, Sally at Country Cordials uses a gentle heat treatment to pasteurise her fruit, flower and herb-based cordials. On clear nights, the ceiling windows reveal a dazzling starry sky. Sally recommends both her traditional apple flavour as well as the honey, lemon and ginger – also available with a kick of chilli for an invigorating klys feeling.

“Making cordials is also a warm process too. It’s wonderful coming into the unit the next morning with those warm fruity aromas still filling the air.”

“The apple cordial is soft, smooth and soothing – it’s like Christmas in a cup. But our honey, lemon and ginger puts things right. It feels healing with an explosion of rich nutrients and vitamins. People often drink it in dry January and say it’s well worth giving up alcohol for.

“One of the best things about our cordials is that they’re really versatile. You can play with them; they are amazing as a sauce on ice cream, in cocktails or even in stir fries.

“Making cordials is a warm process too. It’s wonderful coming into the unit the next morning with those warm fruity aromas still filling the air. Friends often just stand there, breathing it all in.”

Check out our holiday properties in Mousehole to experience everything the area has to offer in Winter.

Mulled nectar

Founded in the fishing village of Newlyn, Cornish Mead Co. is run by Sophia and her brother, Matthew. The company was the brainchild of their great grandfather in the 1950s. The medieval drink ­– with its appearance of golden nectar – is at the heart of their recommendation for conjuring cosiness.

Image credit: Cornish Mead Co.

“If I was going to describe mulled mead as a colour, it would be a dark oak or velvety ochre.”

“We recommend mulling our mead with some juice, or even cider and wintery spices like cinnamon and oranges. It really works because it’s sweet, which surprises people; there’s a warmth and depth to it.

“If I was going to describe mulled mead as a colour, it would be a dark oak or velvety ochre. With one sip, it’s like a big fleecy comfort blanket being thrown around you and it goes brilliantly with dark chocolate or a cheese board.

“But the company is also about family heritage and celebrating Newlyn’s history where mead has always been the people’s favourite. The drink is all about warmth, love and community; it’s about being part of something and celebrating friendships. Community is where people keep an eye on each other and that’s a hug in itself really.”

Get klys and cosy in a winter retreat by the coast, where you can sip seasonal drinks with a sea view. Browse our selection below.

Indulge in shoreside-inspired drinks, bringing the taste of the coast to your glass for a refreshing and memorable experience.

Klysa glow

James Bowden for land&water

Image credit: James Bowden for land&water

From rain on her face to a roast in the oven, land&water’s Pix Ashworth shares what klysa means to her…

Sea spray, frosty mornings, bobble-hat shaking winds. A pumping heart rate clambering up the coast path; surging endorphins emerging from the sea. Winter days outside in Cornwall can be thrilling – and all the better for coming inside to hot drinks and good food, good books and good company.

“Time outside makes us feel better inside,” says Pix Ashworth, founder of natural bath and body brand, land&water. Hailing from Watergate Bay on Cornwall’s north coast, the land&water collection captures “that warm glow we feel after time in the elements”.

This sensation chimes with the whole idea of klysa – the Cornish word meaning ‘to make snug’ – when “the outdoor elemental wilderness makes the indoor cosiness feel all the more inviting and impactful”.

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Image credit: Goodrest Studios for land&water

So we invited Pix to share some favourite winter scents and sensations, inspired by that uplifting balance between time outside and inside at this time of year…

Image credit: Goodrest Studios for land&water

OUTSIDE

Rain on my face

“We live a few miles inland amongst farmland, and there’s a 5km circular walk I do regularly at the weekends. A mix of blustery winds, patches of sunshine and the odd rain shower is the perfect winter walk for me. As long as I’m warm, the sensation of rain on my face is refreshing, invigorating and somehow satisfying – it completes that ‘blast of fresh air’ feeling.”

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Land and water woman and sea

Image credit: James Bowden for land&water

Glowing cheeks

“When I picture this sensation, I think of the very moment that I open the door to our house, arriving back home after walk. Sometimes it’s almost dark, in those shortest winter days – even if it’s only late afternoon. But it’s a life-affirming moment, full of positivity and simple happiness.”

Warming pasties

“Our winter beach trips always involve pasties. We cook them at home, wrap them in baking paper and then lots of tea towels to keep them warm. That moment of cold hands opening them up on the beach – followed by that delicious waft – is something else… A heady mix of warm pastry, steak and salt-filled air.”

INSIDE

Wood fire

“Our little sitting room at home is known as the ‘Snug’ (should we rename it the ‘Klys’?). The first thing I do every winter evening when I arrive home is light the open fire. It’s as much about the atmosphere it creates as the warmth it gives off – and there’s something very soothing about watching the flames come to life.”

Image credit: Goodrest Studios for land&water

A roast in the oven

“It’s unusual for a winter weekend to go by without a roast meal. For me, that smell emanating from the kitchen is synonymous with coming in from a blustery walk or a family football session in the garden – happy chaos and the anticipation of fabulous food.”

Bath salts

“Hot baths are a staple in the winter and I particularly cherish them after time out amongst the elements. The scent of the pure essential oils, particularly the restoring lavender and indulgent linden (it’s a smell to sink into!) hang in the air long after my bath.”

Image credit: Goodrest Studios for land&water

Join Pix for a winter walk, talk and swim on the beach and cliffs at Watergate Bay:

Create your own klysa experience with land&water’s Bathtime bundle:

Land and water bath and body bundle

“Slow, glow, soak, breathe, moisturise… The Bathtime bundle gifts the full reset and restore experience, to light up the day’s downtime and emerge soothed – and softer all over. Bundle includes: one Candle 220g, one Bath Salts 250g, one Pulse Point Oil – Soothe 9ml, and one Body Lotion 250ml.”

Pix by the fire land and water

Browse Pix’s tips for winter self-care, from good reads to playlists and experiences, over on the land&water Journal.

Experience a surface-level change of pace, and enjoy slowing down and savouring the simple joys of coastal living along the Cornish coast.

Run Free

“Running becomes almost meditative.”

Take to the coast path in the quieter hours as the day begins or ends, for a unique running experience.

Lace up your trail running shoes, strap on your pack and set out. With your feet pounding the terrain, the fresh air flowing through your lungs, you begin to connect with the landscape by powering through it: cutting across fields; following a narrow path winding down between trees; and pushing up rough-hewn granite steps to emerge on to a blustery headland, the sun setting over the ocean that stretches out ahead of you. All to a soundtrack of birdsong, wind and waves.

Running the coast path offers the full running experience. It’s exhilarating. Challenging. And utterly freeing.

Visiting Cornwall with an electric car? Check out our holiday lets with electric car (EV) charging points.

A runner’s world

“The coast path offers more than just running,” says Helen Clare (featured in the film below), a St Agnes-based yoga teacher who works with runners to build their strength and flexibility, and help them develop a more natural running style. She’s lucky to have the coast path right on her doorstep. “It’s the whole experience of being out in the environment, surrounded by nature, where running becomes almost meditative.”

If you’re keen to unleash your legs and unwind your mind, you’ll never be short of stimulus on the Cornish coast, which is over 420 miles long and impossibly varied.

“If you spend too much time trying to go fast, you don’t look up at what’s around you. It’s best to savour the moment.”

Starting close to the Devon border, if you reach Rame Head as the sun comes up you’ll be greeted by sweeping bay views that would take your breath away without the hill climb. In the north, feet planted in the golden Watergate sand, you’re just a short trot from blowholes, ancient forts and fascinating rock formations.

Way out west, explore the rugged, foreboding cliffs of Cape Cornwall to run among abandoned mine engine houses or opt for the spectacular highs and azure waters of Porthcurno. On the south coast, navigate the wooded creeks of the Helford River, near Falmouth. The options are almost endless.

Check out more of what Falmouth has to offer by staying in one of our bespoke retreats in Falmouth.

Photo credit: Goodrest Studios

Getting started

As a race director at MudCrew, an organisation that runs gruelling endurance runs on the Cornish coast, Jane Stephens has seen runners of all experience levels throwing themselves at the trails. Her advice is to start short. Uphill climbs on the coast path tend to feel more draining than anywhere else; so too do the steep and hazardous step descents. Don’t worry about times either, as you’re likely to wind up frustrated. Which, she says, is to miss the point entirely.

“Unless you’re a mountain goat, you’re never going to be hugely fast on the coast path,” says Stephens. “So, aim to cover certain areas and log the distance instead. The views are incredible, and it’s just a very special place to be. If you spend too much time trying to go fast, you don’t look up at what’s around you. It’s best to savour the moment.”

watergate

For an easy, accessible starting section, Stephens suggests parking at Trevone and heading towards Watergate, nine miles to the West. She describes the section as “absolutely beautiful, and relatively easy”; a largely wide, flat and open section where you can frequently see the coast path winding ahead of you in the distance.

Run safe

While it’s free and freeing, running the coast path is, first, all about safety. Invest in decent running shoes, with the grip and toe protection to navigate hazards like rocks and tree roots.

“The surroundings. The solitude. You can spend a day out there on remote sections and not see anybody.”

Take plenty of food and fuel. And be sure to let people know where you’re heading. The coast path can turn very remote, very quickly, so carry a means of payment and getting in touch with people.

Finally, if you’re going to run at dusk, make sure you’ve already experienced the route in daylight, keep distances short, and take a head torch – because the terrain will completely transform at night, and so should your level of care.

Interested in finding the best walks in Cornwall? Check out our blog on our favourite autumnal walks.

Adventure all hours

Treat it right, however, and running the coast path is guaranteed to open up a rare world of genuine adventure.

“It’s like how surfers and seafarers respect the sea,” says Stephens. “It can be dangerous, but it’s also my absolute favourite place to be. The surroundings. The solitude. You can spend a day out there on remote sections and not see anybody. It’s just a beautiful place to be.”

Thank you to Helen Clare for allowing us to feature her in our coastal running film.

New food, new flavours

Jude Kereama, Sham Mulji and Fiona Were are among the Cornwall-based chefs revealing some of the tempting new flavours and ingredients on menus in 2022. From St Ives Bay Mackerel to sweet Melder honey, hand-dived scallops and sustainably reared beef, take a culinary tour of the county with some of the most talented chefs working here today…

Interested in staying in our most luxurious holiday cottages? Check out our luxury coastal cottages.

Food pictured: Chef Fiona NZ

Chef Fiona NZ, private chef, Cornwall

Touted as one of the ’10 female chefs to watch’ by The Independent, Fiona Were is taking the Cornish private dining scene by storm. Drawing on her New Zealand roots, classic French training and Asian influences, Fiona travels throughout Cornwall offering her bespoke dining experiences – from intimate dinners à deux to exquisite group tasting menus.

“The ingredient that I’m most excited about using for 2022 is the fantastic seafood that Cornwall has to offer, in particular, hand line caught, St Ives Bay Mackerel. I just love the versatility of this beautiful fish.

“My dishes are always evolving with the seasons and mackerel is often a key feature. It pairs so well with many different flavours, from delicate to robust. I particularly enjoy accompanying this delicious, underrated, sustainably caught fish with herbs I may have foraged on one of my many ornithological forays or that I have grown myself, which add intriguing flavour notes.

“Every ingredient I use plays its own role on the plate. Sometimes less is more, but the flavours and colours are always fresh and intense. The possibilities are only limited by my imagination.”

Beach Retreats in St Ives

Jude Kereama, patron chef, Kota, Porthleven

Meaning ‘shellfish’ in Maori, Kota serves the best local produce with a signature Asian twist from a 300-year-old converted mill on the historic Porthleven harbour front. Half Maori, half Chinese Malay chef Jude Kereama is much-celebrated, having been named ‘Chef of the Year’ in 2019 and chosen to represent the South West in Great British Menu.

“We are looking forward to our new season tasting menu here at Kota, taking advantage of local produce that surrounds us in Cornwall. These include seared hand-dived scallops with xo sauce, crispy onions and venison tartare from a local venison farm which is the best I have ever used (West Country Premium Venison).

“We will serve the tartare with apple, celeriac, hazelnuts and a gochujang dressing. We are also looking forward to producing from our own farm, which we are working on at the moment.”

Find a Beach Retreat near Porthleven

Image Credit: Jude Kereama, Kota, photographer James Ram

Sham Mulji, chef/barista/owner, Situ Café (mobile)

With a menu spanning speciality coffee, masala chai and Gujarati, Ugandan and British fusion food, mobile canteen Situ Café is the brainchild of Sham Mulji – AKA the man behind the van. Visitors to Cornwall can sample Sham’s flavours at local markets, pop-ups and his ‘Eatery Evenings’ – or bring the café culture to their dining room with private catering.

“When I launched the ‘Eatery’ section of the business last summer, I wanted to find the best, local, sustainable produce to continue our aim of connecting communities. I’m particularly excited to explore more of what Homage to the Bovine (grass-fed retired dairy cow beef) have to offer this year ­– building on their sustainable beef practices by using forequarter, shin, ox-tail, marrow and even pushing boundaries by cooking up liver and trotters.

“This is in keeping with our ‘heritage food’ style and, as a farming county, it’s important we take a more sustainable, nose-to-tail approach when eating meat.”

Chef Natasha, private chef, Cornwall

St Ives local and freelance chef Natasha Osborne creates unique dining experiences across Cornwall. Working closely with her clients to plan bespoke menus, Chef Natasha is just as comfortable rustling up a relaxed outdoor wood-fired feast as a refined tasting menu – and can often be found foraging in the Cornish hedgerows for new flavours.

Explore more of our favourite restaurants with amazing sea views.

“I’m most excited about working with new local suppliers. Most recently, I’ve been daydreaming of a dish featuring Melder Honey, which is a honey that’s really local to my hometown of St Ives. It’s the best honey I’ve ever tasted and Toby the owner is so great to work with, often turning up with a truck full of bees and honey for me!

“I’m thinking of recreating a steamed sponge syrup pudding, traditionally made with golden syrup, which I will be replacing with Toby’s honey and adding some blackberries too – perhaps a blackberry custard or crème patisserie. There’s just something so good about an actual, old-school pudding.”

Beach Retreats with room to host

Angus Bell, chef/owner, Restaurant Mine, Falmouth

Nestled in a cobbled courtyard favoured by Falmouth’s arty crowd, Restaurant Mine is a cosy neighbourhood eatery offering a fresh take on classic British food. Le Gavroche-trained chef Angus Bell is the culinary mastermind behind a reassuringly concise menu of locally sourced ingredients.

“I’m very passionate about the provenance of the produce we use. Everything in the kitchen comes from Cornwall, within as small a radius as possible.

“There are some incredible growers here, and I like to preserve the best of each season for use throughout the year.

“One of our suppliers has just harvested his Cornish lemons, which we have on the menu in cocktails and a lemon curd pavlova now and have preserved in salt for future salad dressings and sauces.”

Check out our other locations and other retreats across North Cornwall.

Stay in Falmouth with Beach Retreats

A better bolthole

What’s the best spot for a winter getaway, for solace, rest and revival? Debika Ray escaped to 15 Cannery Row, Hayle, a frame for life on the shore, finding serene sands, newly arrived birds and buckets of inspiration…

By Debika Ray, contributing editor at Crafts magazine, founder of Clove magazine and writer. Her work has been published in Kinfolk, Wallpaper, the Guardian and Architectural Digest.

Discover unbeatable savings and unforgettable experiences with Beach Retreats’ exclusive special offers.

“I have gained very great inspiration from Cornish land- and sea-scape, the horizontal line of the sea and the quality of light and colour, which so excites one’s sense of form,” said the artist Barbara Hepworth in a 1946 interview with The Studio magazine. “And first and last there is the human figure, which in the country becomes a free and moving part of a greater whole.”

Standing in the garden of Trewyn Studio in St Ives, it’s easy to see why Cornwall proved so inspirational for the great modernist sculptor – how she might have felt freed and moved by her majestic surroundings. In November, when I visit, her sloping garden is doused in a misty haze: more than 30 bronze, wood and stone sculptures sit amid a mix of mature trees, ornamental plants and stone walls.

Thinking about staying in St Ives? Have a look at our luxury St Ives holiday properties.

“Here, the proximity and exposure to nature is echoed: as day breaks, light falls softly through the large balcony windows into the master bedroom and open-plan living room.”

To one side of the site are a conservatory and light-filled studio, the latter still scattered with tools, materials and clothing and surrounded by uncarved blocks of stone. Through rainy days and sunny ones, Hepworth would have sat – working or thinking – inside these light-filled spaces, looking out over the landscape she designed herself. “Finding Trewyn Studio was a sort of magic,” she wrote of the place. “Here was a studio, a yard and garden where I could work in open air and space. It is completely perfect for me.”

A clearer mind

My artistic aspirations may not be as lofty as Hepworth’s, but, from this vantage point, I find myself wondering what it would be like to move to Cornwall in search of creative inspiration – writing, reading or simply thinking more clearly amid that magical light and fresh, cool air. Cornwall, I’m told, rarely gets cold enough to snow, thanks to its salty air and the tempering effects of the Gulf Stream – a relatively mild climate that makes an outdoor lifestyle both possible and appealing even in the winter months.

“To stay by the sea, is to watch the landscape shift constantly before your eyes… Modern architects have long understood that building should be a frame for life, rather than imposing too heavily on it.”

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St Ives is a mere 13 minute coastal train journey, via the sweeping Carbis Bay, from St Erth; itself a three minute onward ride to Hayle, where Cannery Row, is located. Here, the proximity and exposure to nature is echoed: as day breaks, light falls softly through the large balcony windows into the master bedroom and open-plan living room, revealing the Hayle Estuary, with its ebbing and flowing tides, just outside.

To stay by the sea is to watch the landscape shift constantly before your eyes. Later, as the sun sets, the same view is slowly occluded, and our view turns inwards, to the spacious, modern, double-height interior. Modern architects have long understood that building should be a frame for life, rather than imposing too heavily on it.

“At Hayle Beach, a brief stroll from the apartment, rolling dunes – or Towans – tumble down from dramatic black rocks, and the eye has to stretch far into the distance before you can see the waves rumbling towards the shore.”

The surrounding estuary is guarded by the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (RSPB), because of its abundance of wetland flocks. Winter, they say, is the best time to visit: it’s when you can see vast collectives of teals and wigeons, as well as ring-billed gulls from North America, and can be undisturbed by the higher number of tourists who similarly flock to the area in the summer. Elsewhere along the coast you can spot seals, dolphins and basking sharks, or charter a boat to catch your own fish.

“The uneven ground means the tide moves in inconsistently, forming exposed island-like mounds and the water trickles ashore and encircles them: we stop to chat to fellow walkers who are throwing balls for their over-excited dogs to fetch.”

Deserted sands

At Hayle Beach, a brief stroll from the apartment, rolling dunes – or Towans – tumble down from dramatic black rocks, and the eye has to stretch far into the distance before you can see the waves rumbling towards the shore. At low tide, on this autumn morning, the sands remain wet underfoot far away from the water’s edge, as we trudge past a handful of other early risers along the practically deserted golden sands.

The uneven ground means the tide moves in inconsistently, forming exposed island-like mounds and the water trickles ashore and encircles them: we stop to chat to fellow walkers who are throwing balls for their over-excited dogs to fetch; they splash and bound as they do so through the pools of water that are swiftly forming. A raised coastal walk takes us on the high road along the beach, leading past miles of unspoiled views.

“In times when sunshine and warmth are scarce, such qualities are needed to uplift us”

Light and air

Hepworth no doubt chose her home partly with views in mind: the home and studio that the artist occupied for the final 25 years of her life – now the Barbara Hepworth Museum – is minutes from St Ives harbour, amid narrow streets and pitched roofs. She is among the best-known artists to have settled in Cornwall, but she is hardly the only one to have been enlivened by this coastal stretch of south-west England. Ceramicist Bernard Leach set up his world-renowned pottery studio in the town in 1920, and it remains among the best known pottery studios in the world, embedded in Cornwall’s historic relationship with clay.

My stroll through the area takes me past and into art and craft galleries, pocketing ceramic objects to take home as souvenirs. These are dotted across the region to represent the creative community that continues to make the county its home. Today, an outpost of the Tate Gallery sits a short walk away from Hepworth’s house on the site of an old gasworks, and shows off the work of several other notable local names.

“Back in Hayle in the evening, we stick close to the water, and close to home: an atmospherically lit shack on the sand”

Here, too, weather provides a backdrop to the building: standing in the amphitheatre-like entryway, I hear the roar of the ocean crashing against the shore and feel the salty air swirl around me. The sound and weather swiftly vanish as I step inside the serene interior, safely ensconced amid the finely curated art collection, but the sea itself remains visible from the open studio nestled at the front of the gallery, which is devoted to artists who take up residencies there and which you can look down upon from a circular balcony.

Later, from the generous windows of the fourth floor cafe, I spot miniature surfers bobbing on the distant waves, and I am mesmerised for hours by their relentless energy and the movement of the water. At ground level, a glass enclosed restaurant across the road gives a closer view, hovering just over the sands of Porthmeor Beach, alongside seagulls and above the smattering of spectators gathered to appreciate the water sports.

Back in Hayle in the evening, we stick close to the water, and close to home: an atmospherically lit shack on the sand, a local recommendation, serves Cajan-spiced fish and barbecued meats. We eat seafood by the bucket, and wash it down with local beers and Cornish-themed cocktails.

Winter retreats to the coast or countryside are often associated with crackling fires, old furniture, low ceilings or dim lighting. But, as Hepworth understood, the soul thrives on light, air and space. In times when sunshine and warmth are scarce, such qualities are needed to uplift us, and more so for anyone seeking to achieve the artist’s ambition of making the “human figure … a free and moving part of a greater whole”.

See 15 Cannery Row

Living in Light

Natural light makes us feel a certain way, when we’re bathed in it and beyond, throughout each day. As those days shorten, it’s a good time to turn your attention to getting enough of it…

As the clocks go back and mild dread of the darker mornings and evenings sets in, autumn may seem the wrong time of year to be thinking about natural light. But then there’s that low, early evening sunshine on a clear, crisp autumn day, reflecting off the Atlantic.

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If you’re lucky enough to be sat on a dune or clifftop to catch the sunset, wrapped in a blanket and armed with a flask of something hot, expect skies cast in spectacular modes that change minute by minute; light pink at first before mauve and fiery orange, carving an arrow of light on the glistening water from the horizon all the way to you.

“Natural light has an advantage over artificial light in terms of allowing us to feel alert during the day and drowsy at night.”

As the light fades, the cold descends and the daylight vanishes, triggering a rise in your melatonin hormone levels, steering you instinctively towards home. Or at least, that’s what’s meant to happen; a healthy intake of natural light throughout the day to vitalise your body and stimulate your mind followed by total darkness to assist uninterrupted, high-quality sleep.

In reality our day-to-day exposure to artificial light and lack of exposure to natural light is playing havoc, disrupting our 24-hour biological clock and circadian rhythms. So what can help your body get back in sync with the phases of day and night while you’re on holiday?

Design for light

You may have heard the term circadian rhythms (circa: round, diem: day), referring to the body’s cycle of physiological patterns over a 24-hour period that evolved over millennia to sync with the light-dark cycle.

Natural light has an advantage over artificial light in terms of allowing us to feel alert during the day and drowsy at night, with our bodies being the most alert during the morning hours of daylight.

Electric light may be obligatory in extending our waking and working hours, as our daylight hours decrease substantially in autumn and winter. However as Professor Derk Jan-Dijk, Distinguished Professor of Sleep and Physiology at the University of Surrey, says, “[w]e are the only species to extend our day using artificial light, and this has consequences”. Even counting on ordinary electric bulbs as our only light source for a whole day, rather than spending time outdoors, may disrupt our circadian clock.

Architecture has an important role to play in how we access natural light throughout the year, utilising design to encourage generous amounts of natural light to flood through internal spaces. Think contemporary, spacious interiors, full-width, floor to ceiling windows with glazing and bifold glass, perfect filters for the soft autumn light.

 “Dawn and dusk in autumn are beautiful times of the day and the light is extraordinary at times.”

When it comes to orientation, north and south isn’t only a gardeners question. South-facing aspects enjoy more time each day to let the light in.

Illuminating views

And that muted light during the autumn and winter months has its own qualities. For more than a century, the unique quality of natural light has drawn painters to Cornwall’s shores, and remains a compelling source of inspiration. “We are surrounded by water which means we get a lot of sun reflection off the blue sea,” says landscape artist Nicola Mosley, whose Cornwall-based studio takes in a harbour view in Falmouth

“The light on a long hazy summer’s day is lovely,” Nicola adds. “But there’s something about the light during the autumn months; it can be more diffused and softer than summer and for me it’s my favourite time to paint. Dawn and dusk in autumn are beautiful times of the day and the light is extraordinary at times. Even in winter the clouds and mist refract the light in a beautiful soft way.”

“Regular good sleep, as well as being beneficial to us physically, helps us cognitively… to manage our emotions and stress levels better.”

When it comes to interior and exterior spaces for making the most of natural light on holiday, terraces and balconies – with added blankets – mean ocean and sunset views in the open, all year round, any time of day. Wide, open-plan spaces allow light to travel freely and when it is time to switch on the lights, LED lighting can be a gentler alternative, in the same spectrum as daylight, keeping that natural ambience going into the evening.

Call of the outdoors

Dr Neil Stanley of the International Sleep Charity reminds us that “sleep is so central to how our bodies and minds function”. Regular good sleep, as well as being beneficial to us physically, helps us cognitively with decision-making and allows us to regulate and manage our emotions and stress levels better.

Studies show that people who suffer consistently poor sleep are, perhaps unsurprisingly, more prone to anxiety, depression, irritability, and the tendency to catastrophise. None of these states of mind are top of the list on holiday, where you should be relaxing and leaving with an invigorated body and mind.

“Donning coats and boots, or wetsuits and drysuits, and escaping through the front door bright and early on an autumn morning is uplifting on many levels, including that crucial intake of daylight”

Our body’s internal 24-hour clock can also be helped onto the right track through outdoor activity during the day. The stunning panoramic views, enjoyed through expansive glazing, can’t help but beckon you outside, on to the winding coast paths and cycle trails, or oceanside, for that spontaneous rush to the water’s edge for a bracing family swim or surf session.

Donning coats and boots, or wetsuits and drysuits, and escaping through the front door bright and early on an autumn morning is uplifting on many levels, including that crucial intake of daylight to synchronise your circadian rhythms, making you awake and alert.

Days well-spent in the natural light of the day could be the make or break, for refreshing minds and bodies, happier moods, and a good night’s sleep.

Want to explore Cornwall in Autumn? Check out our blog on why Cornwall is great in Autumn.

Natural Signs at Sea

We spoke to sea watcher and Royal National Lifeboat Institution (RNLI) lifeguard and supervisor Andrea Harvey about how we can decipher the signs of the sea: its waters, winds and swells, and the wondrous creatures that swim beneath…

When you imagine spending your holiday by the beach, you’re probably thinking golden sand, cerulean skies, and the distant murmur of lapping waves. It’s a picturesque image, but it’s just that – an image.

The real sea, the one that exists outside of postcards and holiday brochures, is far more vibrant and shifting. As Andrea, RNLI beach lifeguard and supervisor in Perranporth, Cornwall, tells us: “It’s not a cookie-cutter paradise place.”

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The sea is beautiful, yes, but it’s also “rustic and rough”. The winds, waves and tides are constantly changing, and strange creatures emerge from its watery depths. “Everyone wants to be near the sea in Cornwall,” adds Andrea with a wide smile. But can we learn how to read it?

See the swell, watch the wind
Being a lifeguard means constantly monitoring the sea, even when you’re at home. “You look up the conditions the night before to assess the individual beaches you’re working on to prepare for the day ahead,” Andrea says, “using apps like Magic Seaweed and Wind Guru” which report and forecast wind and swell directions.

“If it’s really windy, there’ll be lots of broken messy waves…less wind means cleaner, more defined waves”

The waves that you see breaking on the beach are influenced by several factors including the strength and direction of the wind, and the characteristics of the sea bed. The swell refers to a series of large waves travelling across the ocean before they reach the coastline and begin to form the waves that break on the beach. “If it’s really windy, there’ll be lots of broken messy waves and white water all over the place, and less wind means cleaner, more defined waves that break from a point and peel all the way along,” explains Andrea.

To know if a swell will affect the waves on the beach you’re going to, you’ll need to take into consideration the lay of the land and the swell direction: “If a beach is facing north and there is southerly swell the land mass will restrict the swells access to the beach; however there may still be waves due to the wind,” Andrea says.

“You can tell an awful lot just by sitting and looking at the water for a while.”

There aren’t any objectively ideal conditions: it all depends on what you want to do. “Light offshore winds and medium size swells are ideal for surfers but dangerous for kitesurfers, windsurfers and bodyboarders,” notes Andrea. If you’re just going for a dip, “light winds and 2-3 feet of surf are the best conditions to go in to have fun!”

Written in the waves
But with your feet sinking into soft sand and your eyes drawn out to sea, you might not want to interrupt the moment by checking your phone. The appeal of a beach holiday is partly in immersing yourself in your surroundings: “You can tell an awful lot just by sitting and looking at the water for a while,” says Andrea.

If you’re itching to jump in the water after a long walk, cycle or car journey, try to resist the urge for a moment: instead, sit on the beach, soak up the sun and interpret the signs you see.

If you are heading in for a swim, learning to read the moments of calm can be more important than reading the waves. “Quite a lot of the time, people come down to the beach and they see lots of waves everywhere, then they see a nice seemingly calm tranquil patch in the middle and think ‘oh that would be the best place to swim’ – but actually, that’s straight into a rip,” says Andrea.

A rip is a fast, current running out to deeper water, which can reach speeds of 4-5mph; you might spot a rippled surface where no waves are breaking, darker coloured deeper water or bits of seaweed or debris floating on it, being pulled out to sea. Instead, Andrea advises to swim “where the waves are.”

“It’s not just the water itself that you can read; the sea and skies are home to creatures that even the locals are still learning to recognise.”

If you do find yourself in a rip current, the key thing is not to panic. Don’t try to swim against the current as you may become exhausted. Instead, lean back, extend your arms and legs, and float on the water. If you need to, gently move your arms and legs to help you float. Once you can control your breathing, you can call for help or swim to safety.

“With the sea temperature in the UK averaging just 12 degrees most of the year, there’s a chance you’ll feel the effects of cold-water shock when you first get in,” adds Andrea. The resulting increased heart rate or gasps for breath pass quickly, so relaxing and floating on your back is also a good tactic when the water is a little colder. That’ll reduce the chance of inhaling water and panicking.

Species spotting
It’s not just the water itself that you can read; the sea and skies are home to creatures that even the locals are still learning to recognise. Out at sea one day, Andrea was surprised by a “little fin coming through the water.’’ What she saw, however, was not a shark but a sunfish: a silvery, billowing orb of a fish that measures an incredible 11 feet and weighs up to 2.5 tons.

Their tendency to “lie on top of the water and sunbathe” means they are frequently mistaken for sharks. “They’ve got a really long floppy fin that looks a bit like a shark fin when it’s up in the air,” says Andrea.

“As a lifeguard, you quickly notice when things change and there’s new things going on”

Fortunately, sunfish are harmless. They like to feed on jellyfish, another creature that beachgoers may spot: strong winds and currents bring jellyfish to shore, explains Andrea, making their presence a marker of the recent conditions. And it’s not just surfers and jellyfish that are affected by the wind and currents: if it’s been stormy, you might stumble across a fluffy, whiskery little seal pup. “They’ll just come up to the beach for a little break,” grins Andrea.

Soaking up the landscape
Sitting quietly on a patch of sand and taking in the skies and sea can be a surprisingly exhilarating experience. “As a lifeguard, you notice when things change and there’s new things going on,” says Andrea.

You can tune into the human and nonhuman life around you; this season alone Andrea has seen “a minke whale, dolphins, seals, a jumping tuna fish – usually they’re in shoals so that’s an exciting sight – and quite a few Cornish choughs.”

“Seeing how the tides, waves and winds affect beaches differently is a fascinating glimpse into the powerful forces that shape coastal environments.”

As an endangered species, spotting a chough takes patience, a true sign that you’re immersing yourself in the coastal landscape. These crow-like birds with red beaks and feet are literally the stuff of legend: it’s said that when King Arthur died, his soul left in the form of a chough. Even if you’re on a short break, try to give yourself the peace and quiet to stare out to sea as a lifeguard might: you never know what might emerge.

Coastal adventures
If you wake up one morning wanting to explore somewhere new, simply going from beach to beach can be an adventure. “It’s shocked me how different they can be on the same day. Some of them can catch quite a lot of surf, and some of them can be quite flat,” explains Andrea.

Seeing how the tides, waves and winds affect beaches differently is a fascinating glimpse into the powerful forces that shape coastal environments. It also means you can try out different activities; why not swim and sunbathe at one, and surf at another?

“Really, though, just being by the sea is the true adventure, even for those who know it well.”

But while it’s fun to celebrate the variety of beaches, it’s always best to try and stick to those that are lifeguarded, especially if you are planning on going in the sea. RNLI lifeguards operate on over 240 beaches across the UK during the peak summer season, so there’s plenty of choice: “Lifeguards have done all the thinking beforehand,” says Andrea, meaning that any potential hazards have been noted. There’ll be red and yellow flags showing you the safest place to swim, and you can chat to the lifeguards about any concerns you have.

Really, though, just being by the sea is the true adventure, even for those who know it well. If you stay alert to what’s around you, something unexpected is bound to appear – in water, on the beach or up in the air.

To find out more about the RNLI, how to stay safe and where to find your nearest lifeguarded beach, please visit: rnli.org/safety/beach-safety

Experience the captivating beauty of dawn and dusk along the Cornish coast, as we compare and contrast these magical moments in nature’s theatre.

Six places to watch the sunrise in Cornwall

Its 6am and you’ve stepped, still bleary eyed, out of your door and down towards the empty stretch of sand. Soft amber light appears to float in the atmosphere- it is not like the harsh mid-day sun which causes you to squint, rather, this light is gentle, inviting, warm. Slowly becoming more awake and alert, you look at the ocean, glimmering in the morning haze as the large orange ball of the sun steadily rolls itself up into the sky.

The magic of the sunrise hours can’t be overstated- it is a peaceful time, before the crowds flock to the sand, where you truly feel like the shoreline belongs to you alone. With all of our properties positioned footsteps from the beach, we have compiled a list of the six best places to see the sunrise, to tempt you out of bed and towards the golden glow of first light.

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Carlyon Bay

With its south-facing stretch of soft sand, Carlyon Bay, near St Austell, is the place to capture a picture-perfect sunrise. The sun paints the sky with tones of pink and orange which perfectly contrast with the pale blue of the sea in the morning light. The beach will be largely empty at this time in the morning, the only company being the birds wandering around freely as you leave the day’s first footprints in the sand.

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Whitsand Bay

Whitsand Bay runs from Rame Head to Portwrinkle, and its sheer cliffs, long stretches of beach and panoramic scenery make for a dramatic sunrise. Head onto the clifftop to capture the purple sky as the sun bursts its first light above the sloping fields. You may even be joined by some sheep, who populate the clifftop, to watch it with you.

Gyllyngvase Beach, Falmouth

Falmouth’s Gylly Beach is famed as a swimming spot, stand-up paddleboarder’s dream and for its vibrant beachfront café. Yet head down at dawn and you will experience a different atmosphere. As the sun rises, the water takes on a glassy effect and mirrors the kaleidoscope of colours spread across the sky. Spot the daisies that line the beach complimenting the pink hues around them.

Fowey

To catch the sun breaking into the sky admist a serene harbour setting, try Fowey. The masts and sails of harbour boats will point upwards towards the orange splash of colour that rises above the seaside town. The sunrise here is the perfect time to enjoy the sights of Fowey in peace before the lively chatter of the working harbour life takes hold throughout the day.

Mevagissey

Cobbled streets usually packed with beachgoers and fisherman alike are empty in Mevagissey at sunrise, touched only by the soft sun rays which fill the atmosphere. Wander the harbour walls as if they belong to you alone at the calmest point in the day, experiencing this classic Cornish village in a new and ethereal light.

Coverack

Situated on the Lizard Penninsula, Coverack is one of the most Southerly points in Cornwall to watch the suns first light greet the land. Its small pebbly beach is like a secret haven, kissed by the first rays of light which will soon awaken the rest of Cornwall for a lively day of beach trips and water sports. Listen to the trickle of the water as it runs down the rocks which line the shore.

Explore the captivating contrasts of dawn and dusk along the Cornish coast, each offering its own magical ambience and breathtaking views.