Author: gloversure

Post-surf food

Time in the waves is a sure-fire appetite builder. But where and what to eat?

As far as surfing in the UK goes, it doesn’t get much better than Cornwall. With Atlantic low pressure systems on 400 miles of coastline that provide a whole range of breaks, it’s no wonder people call it the UK’s surf Mecca.

Whether you’re paddling out for the first time or hunting for powerful barrelling waves, one thing’s certain – you’ll be hungry afterwards.

Explore more foodie escapes and discover our favourite surf beach cafes in Cornwall.

With that in mind, we spoke with three local chefs to find out their top spots for post-surf food. And if you’d rather get back to your beach retreat to prep something yourself, they’ve also shared some tasty – but easy to make – recipes.

Visiting Cornwall for a workcation? Have a look at our holiday lets perfect for extended stays and working.

JUDE KEREAMA

KOTA, PORTHLEVEN

“If you’re looking for the best food after a surf on the north coast, look no further than Porthmeor beach in St Ives,” says Jude Kereama, chef-owner of Kota in Porthleven – a Michelin Bib Gourmand-awarded restaurant that serves Asian-inspired food using the freshest local produce.

“St Ives is full of brilliant eateries, and there always seems to be a wave at Porthmeor, with its north-facing beach and offshore winds. On the beach itself, I really enjoy Porthmeor Beach Cafe, Fish Shed and the West Beach Bakery.” And if you’re heading into town? Jude recommends a visit to Porthgwidden Beach Cafe, Porthminster Kitchen and Porthminster Beach Cafe.

Discover our other Porthleven holiday properties.

Image credit: James Ram

If you’re after delicious post-surf food that not only tastes good but helps with physical recovery, Jude’s go-to is a Hawaiian poke bowl. “You can put whatever you fancy in it,” he says. “Raw fish, cooked meats, any vegetables and a mixture of rices. You can also change the dressings to be as spicy as you like.”

Jude’s Poke Bowl Recipe

Ingredients

1 cup cooked rice (brown/sushi mix is the best)

1/2 diced avocado

1/4 cup diced cucumber

1/4 cup edamame beans

1/4 cup diced mango

1/4 cup julienne of carrot

1/4 cup of shredded red and green cabbage

Sliced red chilli

Sliced radishes

Diced sashimi grade mackerel or any other fish that’s super fresh. You could also do it with cooked meats if you like.

For the dressing

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar

1 tablespoon sesame oil

1 tsp honey

Mix all together and add to the mackerel

Garnish

Sriracha chilli sauce

Japanese mayo

Furikake spice

Toasted julienne nori

Toasted mixed sesame seeds

Diced spring onions

Method

Place the rice in the bottom of a bowl.

Add each ingredient in a clockwork pattern.

Garnish with a squiggle of Sriracha sauce, a squiggle of Japanese mayo, and a sprinkle of Furikake spice, nori, sesame seeds and spring onion.

For surfing in St Ives, stay here.

PAUL HARWOOD

THE FISH HOUSE FISTRAL, NEWQUAY

Learning on gentle rollers or expertly taking on The Cribbar big wave, Fistral has it all. Looking out over the beach is The Fish House – a Michelin Plate-awarded bistro serving the freshest seafood landed in Newquay harbour.

For Paul Harwood, chef-owner of The Fish House and an avid surfer himself, there’s only one place to go after a surf at Fistral: The Fish House. “I’m being a bit biased here for obvious reasons!” he says. “Our fish finger sandwich is a firm favourite with the lifeguards – home-made bread and tartar sauce with succulent cod fingers coated in a crisp panko crumb. It’s a real tasty post-surf filler.”

Image credit: Alix Donnelly

For food other than his own, there’s Sea Spray on South Fistral. “It’s a great breakfast spot after dawn patrol. The breakfast burrito really hits the spot, with great produce all wrapped up.

“Further up the coast you could surf Constantine or Harlyn, both high quality surf breaks,” he continues. “Head to Paul Ainsworth’s Caffe Rojano (in Padstow) – there’s a very well-delivered menu with an Italian twist.”

Paul’s Prawn Taco Recipe

Ingredients

6 tiger prawns, peeled and de-veined

2 tacos

For the salsa

1 large tomato

1/2 red onion

Pinch coriander

Pinch flake chilli

Juice from 1 lime

1 baby gem salad

Seasoning

For the Piri-piri mayonnaise

1 red chilli

1 teaspoon cayenne

1 teaspoon smoked paprika

1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

Juice from 1/2 lime

Seasoning

Mayonnaise

Method

Prepare the salsa by thinly chopping all the ingredients, mixing in a bowl.

Slice the lettuce but keep separate.

For the Piri-piri mayonnaise, blend all the ingredients before mixing with two tablespoons of mayonnaise.

To serve

Pan-fry the prawns in olive oil for 2 minutes each side.

Dress the tacos with lettuce topped with salsa.

Add the mayonnaise before topping with the prawns.

For surfing in Fistral, browse our retreats. For Harlyn and Constantine, stay here.

SAM SHEFFIELD-DUNSTAN,

LULA, HAYLE

Some of the best surf in Cornwall can be found along the three miles of Gwithian beach in Hayle, and west of the harbour in Porthleven. (Porthleven boasts Cornwall’s best reef break, with short, shallow right-hander barrels for experts only.)

Image credit: J.Ph Baudey

With a restaurant in each location, chef Sam Sheffield-Dunstan is no stranger to satiating the appetite of a hungry surfer. “The ultimate surf hangout is our shack LULA, overlooking Hayle beach just yards from the surf,” she says. “Enjoy a creamy chowder washed down with a pint of Offshore, followed by one of our legendary LULA Sundaes.”

If you’re looking for some post-surf food in Porthleven, she recommends LULA’s sister restaurant, Amélie, for pizza and a glass of red. Elsewhere, “Nauti But Ice do an amazing breakfast,” she says. “Enjoy sitting and watching the waves as they crash in the harbour.” And if you’re willing to venture a little further, she recommends The Hidden Hut on the Roseland Peninsula, for its “amazing views and memorable Cornish dining”.

Image credit: J.Ph Baudey

LULA’S Lobster Mac and Cheese Recipe

Ingredients

75g cooked lobster meat, roughly chopped into chunks

300g macaroni pasta

500ml milk

50g butter

30g plain flour

1 bay leaf

2 cloves

1 tsp Dijon mustard

100g grated mozzarella

100g grated parmesan

50g grated mature cheddar

50g panko breadcrumbs

Pinch dried thyme

Sea Salt

Ground white pepper

Glug of olive oil

Method

Preheat oven to 220c / 200c fan or light grill on medium setting.

Cook the pasta in a pan of boiling salted water for about two minutes less than you would usually. Reserve a ladle-full of the cooking water.

In a pan, heat the olive oil over a medium heat then add the dried thyme and panko breadcrumbs, stirring constantly until golden brown, for about five minutes. Leave to cool then add 25g of parmesan and mix well (save the rest for the sauce, below).

Place milk, bay and cloves in a pan over a gentle heat until steaming – be careful not to boil.

At the same time, melt the butter in a pan (big enough to hold the amount of pasta once cooked with room to stir!) and cook until a light golden colour. Sprinkle the flour in and mix into a paste that should thicken as the flour cooks out. Add the milk very slowly, bit by bit, and incorporate fully in between each addition to avoid a lumpy sauce, warming the milk beforehand makes this step much easier. The bay and cloves can be discarded at this point.

Once all the milk has been added, mix in the Dijon mustard and all the cheese. Mix until cheese has melted then remove from the heat, season with salt and ground white pepper.

Tip the pasta into the cheese sauce with about a tablespoon of the reserved cooking water and 50g of the lobster meat, mix well. Split into two ovenproof bowls and sprinkle the panko mixture over the top, then the remaining lobster meat. Bake in the oven for 10 minutes, or under the grill for three – until golden and bubbly.

For surfing in Porthleven, stay here. For Gwithian and Hayle, stay here.

We’re proud to be sponsors of The Wave Project

We’re proud to announce that we’ve recently become a sponsor of The Wave Project, a nationally-reaching surf therapy charity which was founded in Cornwall.

Our monthly donation will support projects in the South West, and allow the team to continuously respond to situations quickly and efficiently, ensuring that young people have help and support when they need it most.

Thinking about bringing your dog on holiday? Check out our dog-friendly holiday properties.

This can include anything from paying for transport to and from the sessions, funding one to one adaptive surfing lessons, and waiving the Surf Therapy referral fee for young people who might otherwise fall through the gaps. Read more about the fantastic work The Wave Project does below.

About The Wave Project

With projects across Cornwall, but also extending across the UK, The Wave Project is a lifeline to young people across the country.

Supporting children and young people who experience a range of physical and mental health issues, social deprivation, or social isolation, the Wave Project facilitates a range of activities, including year-long surf therapy courses which aim to help participants build self-esteem, develop resilience, and make friends.

A Surf Club is in place for those who have participated in the Surf Therapy courses, along with a Beach Therapy Programme which blends surf therapy and education to help pupils who have found engaging in school life a challenge to get more inspired and motivated to learn.

Firm believers that surfing is for everyone, the Wave Project has also acquired the necessary skills, training and specialist equipment to deliver safe and enjoyable surf lessons for those with physical disabilities from its Adaptive Surfing Hub in Croyde, North Devon. Later this summer, they will also start offering adaptive surf sessions from Watergate Bay in Cornwall.

Discover the charm and beauty of Croyde in North Devon, where stunning landscapes and coastal adventures await with Beach Retreats.

The nationally award-winning surf therapy courses are free of charge for participants and their families. This means that the charity wholly relies on donations from its supporters to fund the activities, which are run by a team of dedicated volunteers.

Newquay project co-ordinator Fred Andrews said: “­­­We’re immensely grateful to supporters like Beach Retreats for their donations, which allow us to run the activities our communities across the UK have become so reliant on over the last ten years.”

Watch a video on the brilliant work The Wave Project is doing to support children and young people below.

Why we’re supporting The Wave Project

With over 240 properties on Cornwall’s coast, the beach is in our DNA, so it feels only natural that we support a longstanding Cornwall-founded charity like The Wave Project, helping them to deliver lifechanging therapy and courses to young people in need.

Andy, our MD said: “We’re proud of our coastal heritage and want to give back to the community, supporting young people’s physical and mental health, and driving awareness of water safety.

“We’re very excited to see how this partnership unfolds, and we can’t wait for our teams to get stuck into volunteering for this fantastic charity.”

Discover the top five surf-friendly holidays with Beach Retreats, offering perfect accommodations and prime wave-catching locations along the stunning Cornish coast.

For more information about the work the Wave Project is doing across Cornwall and the UK, visit their website.

Retreats fit for a King

Grand entrances. Indoor pool rooms. Banquet-ready dining tables. Flower-filled gardens. Celebrate Coronation Day in a retreat fit for a King.

Choose from our selection of large, lavish stays with space for all of the family to gather, lounge and dine. Or, smaller groups can still holiday in style in unique traditional buildings close to castles and World Heritage Sites. Here’s our top picks for feeling like royalty, all year round.

Interested in staying in our most luxurious holiday cottages? Check out our luxury coastal cottages.

Heron House, Fistral

Enjoy access to the River Gannel directly from your garden, perfect for morning paddleboarding, or start the day slowly with a soak in the hot tub and breakfast on the balcony. This huge family retreat sits on the edge of the estuary which leads towards Crantock beach, showcasing stunning river views. Here, you’re also close to Fistral beach and the jawdropping Pentire headland, where you can enjoy a clifftop feast in The Lewinnick Lodge.

Want to stay in Fistral? Have a look at our luxury holiday cottages in Fistral.

Ellenglaze, Holywell Bay

Ellenglaze is made for royalty. This traditional cottage oozes with charm, from its grand living room with a fireplace and exposed stone walls to the luxurious country cottage kitchen. Its finest feature is the huge indoor pool room, complete with wooden beamed ceilings, large windows which let the sun stream in, and a wall projector for watching films from the hot tub.

Wonderwall, Hayle

This exquisite Hayle retreat is full of character, styled with mid-century furnishings and ornate antique pieces. Here, you can light the fire, pour a glass of wine and flick through a magazine, taking in the decadence of the space. Later, dinner is cooked up in the outdoor pizza oven and enjoyed under the pink skies.

Pilchards Marazion

Sleep opposite the legendary St Michael’s Mount and be the first to cross the causeway at dawn. Pilchards is a cosy Cornish retreat located just seconds from the magical town of Marazion, where the historic castle and island wait to be explored. At high tide, catch the little boat across and experience ocean views from the castle’s turrets.

Book your Coronation Day retreat and celebrate in style.

Explore our new retreat roundup, unveiling the newest additions to our collection of coastal escapes.

Paddleboard days

The evenings are lighter and the weather is getting warmer. The summer season is on its way, and sunnier days are the perfect opportunity to explore more of Cornwall via the sea.

Paddleboarding is the dream spring and summer activity – it’s slow and laid back, allowing you to soak up the scenery as you glide down calm estuaries, but still provides a challenge in balance when you go to stand up!

Once you’ve mastered this relaxing watersport, all you need to do is hire a board and get out on the water. Here’s our run down of the best (and lesser known) spots for paddleboarding around Cornwall this year.

Visiting with a large group? Discover our large holiday homes perfect for big families or friend groups.

Fowey

This pretty fishing village sits around a beautiful estuary which attracts kayakers and swimmers alongside stand up paddleboarders all year round. Before or after your paddleboard, grab a drink from one of the riverside bars and cafes and soak up the bustling, cheery atmosphere of this happy town.

Discover coastal charm at Fowey, South Cornwall, with Beach Retreats.

Helford River

This beautiful tree lined creek offers a lovely quiet spot for a paddleboard. With clear water and an abundance of wildlife living along the shores, the Helford River is great for nature lovers or anyone looking to get away from the summer crowds. Reach Helford just a short drive from our Falmouth retreats.

River Gannel

At low tide, you’ll find a bank of ridged sand, but at high tide, this tidal river fills with turquoise water perfect for paddleboarding. With plenty of paths from Newquay and Fistral beach leading to the Gannel, there’s many easy access launch points. Glide past tropical plants and higgeldy gardens towards Crantock beach, taking in the sight of wild sea birds as you go.

Browse our retreats near the River Gannel, including Heron House which features a gate at the bottom of the garden which leads directly onto the river bank.

Kingsand & Cawsand

With beautifully calm seas, these south coast beaches are perfect for idyllic paddleboarding days out on the water. Sitting next to one another, you can enjoy a relaxing stroll around the villages and a coffee from the beachfront café before floating out onto the crystal clear shores.

Our Cawsand retreats are literally seconds from the sand, too, making paddleboarding sessions easy.

Camel Estuary

This bright blue estuary lies between Padstow and Rock, and on a summer’s day you’ll see regular boat trips, ferries and water taxis crossing the water, alongside paddleboarders and kayakers enjoying the flat conditions. With both Padstow and Rock great foodie destinations, whichever side you set off from you’ll have plenty of delicious options to refuel once you dock.

Find your next holiday location and enjoy days drifting along the water.

Dive into the exciting world of alternative surf activities in Cornwall and discover new ways to enjoy the waves

Must See Places in Cornwall | Top 10 List

Beyond Cornwall’s sandy beaches, you’ll find exquisite gardens, cultural attractions and a rich history. If you’re planning a trip to Cornwall for the first time and aren’t sure on the best places to visit, we’ve produced a list of the top 10 must-see places in Cornwall, ensuring you won’t miss a thing on your holiday.

Find out why Christmas time is the best time to visit Cornwall and some of our holiday retreats to stay in at Christmas time.

The Eden Project

A unique and innovative eco-project, the Eden Project is an absolute must-see on your visit to Cornwall. This stunning global garden consists of tropical biomes the size of 30 football pitches, including the rainforest biome, home to 1000 species of tropical plants, a fully running waterfall and a suspended canopy walkway. Adjacent to this you’ll find the Mediterranean biome, filled to the brim with spiky cacti and ancient olive trees. The site also has an impressive stage where the Eden Sessions are held, seeing performances from world-famous musicians, an ice rink in winter and a science centre featuring fascinating and educational installations.

Image credit: Matt Jessop via Visit Cornwall

South West Coast Path

Another unmissable activity is the South West Coast Path. Stretching for 630 miles and wrapping around the Cornish coast, it is an unforgettable trail featuring some of the most spectacular coastal vistas in the country. If you’re staying by the beach, you are bound to be close to a stretch of the path, on which you can set out on a variety of walks past dramatic cliff edges, fields of sea pinks and secret coves. All of our retreats are within walking distance to the coast and in easy reach to the coast path, meaning you can hop on it and head out on an adventure in no time.

St Michael’s Mount

Set off Marazion beach is this must-see tiny island, featuring an ancient castle and a cobbled causeway that disappears under the tide twice a day. When the tide is out the causeway is exposed, meaning you can take the 10 minute walk across to the castle. If you’re planning to get back to the mainland on foot, you’ll need to check the tides– the tide floods in faster than you might imagine, so always leave yourself a healthy margin for error. When the island is cut off by the tide, small boats run between the pier at Marazion beach and the harbour on the Mount. These run throughout the day in spring and summer but less frequently at other times.

Lost Gardens of Heligan

Cornwall isn’t all just sandy beaches and sparkling oceans. Inland from the shores you’ll come across gardens rich in history and lush vegetation. The Lost Gardens of Heligan are perhaps Cornwall’s most famous gardens, and were rediscovered and reawakened following WW1.

Image credit: Toby Strong

Tintagel Castle

For breathtaking panoramas and untouched history, head to this sleepy Cornish town on the North coast which conceals a dramatic historical castle behind its village streets. You can walk up onto the cliff paths and have access to the castle, where you can uncover the tales of King Arthur.

Image credit: Matt Jessop via Visit Cornwall

Tate St Ives

Looking to get your fix of art during your stay in Cornwall? Head to the county’s best art gallery, the Tate, for a creative experience. It’s located in St Ives, the heart of the artistic scene in Cornwall which is known for its unique light which casts a soft blue glow off the sea. Here, sculptor Barbara Hepworth made some of her most influential work, much of which is showcased in the Tate and the nearby Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden.

Minack Theatre

Watch a play before dramatic clifftop panoramas at the Minack Theatre, an impressive open air theatre situated above Porthcurno beach. If the weather is obliging, the Minack feels like a tiny Greek amphitheatre; the sea here seems bluer than elsewhere in Cornwall, the sand of Porthcurno beach below appears whiter.  The theatre was carved from the unrelentingly hard granite of the Cornish coast by Rowena Cade; it took many years of hard physical labour through the harsh coastal winters to construct and is a monument to dogged perseverance. The story is told at the Minack’s visitor centre, which is well worth a look even if you don’t see a play.

National Trust sites

Cornwall is home to countless National Trust sites, from stretches of coast path to historical houses and gardens. Our particular favourites are Wheal Coates mine in St Agnes, the Roseland peninsula, Lanhydrock country house and Kynance cove in the Lizard. Browse their website to find your nearest National Trust site- they make for a great day out.

Surfing at Fistral beach

Fistral is the nation’s surfing capital and is known for its consistent waves, intense sunsets and lively atmosphere. When visiting Cornwall, it’s highly recommended that you try your hand at surfing – there are plenty of places in the town and on the beach where you can hire equipment and book onto lessons. Or, just sit back on a summer’s evening and watch the surfers rolling in when the swell is rising – it’s truly a must see.

Chasing waterfalls

Alongside acres of beautiful woodland, there are a handful of waterfalls dotted around Cornwall, often concealed deep into nature trails. Visit St Nectan’s Glen, near Tintagel and Boscastle, an area of woodland bursting with mystical tales of piskies and fairies. Here, you will find St Nectan’s Kieve, a spectacular sixty foot waterfall seen through a hole in the rocks. Or, visit Golitha Falls near Liskeard, a cascading waterfall set in a wooded valley.

Interested in finding the best walks in Cornwall? Check out our blog on our favourite autumnal walks.

Staff pick of the month: Sea View, Crantock

Our new series, Staff pick of the month, asks members of the team about their favourite Beach Retreats property. This month we speak to Guest Experience Manager, Victoria Allen. 

Her chosen retreat is Sea View, a beautiful and calming coastal retreat overlooking the sea in Crantock, north Cornwall.

What is it you like most about this property?

Apart from the obvious location, it has to be the huge garden for the little ones and dogs to play in.

And the décor – the pastel colours, white washed wood and painted panelling. It’s got a cottage feel, but bright and modern still.

What will be your favourite part of the day when staying at this retreat?

The evening – dinner with the whole family followed by games. That’s what the long table in the upstairs open plan room is for right?

What is it that you like about the local area?

The coastline. This retreat is so close to Polly Joke beach, a lesser-known gem in the Crantock area. You can also walk all the way round to the River Gannel, a great spot for paddleboarding.

Embark on a scenic walk from Crantock to a mystery location, discovering hidden gems and stunning vistas along Cornwall’s coastline.

What’s the nearest beach like and how far is the walk?

Crantock beach – When the tide is out I love going for stroll across the wide beach. The side closest to the Gannel is perfect for a family BBQ too.

Want to stay in Crantock, Newquay near to Fistral and Watergate? Have a look at our properties in Crantock.

Polly Joke beach – A little hideaway beach! Usually warm as it is covered from wind too. The next cove on is home to seals, sometimes if you’re lucky you can spot one bobbing around in the sea or sleeping on their beach.

It is a steep hill down to the beach but worth it! You can also follow the coastal path around the headland which then offers you views overlooking Polly Joke and Crantock beach!

Is there a particular restaurant in the area that you would choose to eat at?

Jam Jar Kitchen. Hot chocolates (I don’t drink coffee) and delicious homemade cakes in the day and amazing sourdough pizzas in the evening.

All enjoyed alfresco in the beautifully decorated courtyard. Or you can take your coffee and cake to go and enjoy on the beach instead.

The Cornishman is a great traditional pub in the heart of the village. You can tuck into pub grub or just enjoy a drink.

Can you catch a good sunset or sunrise here?

It’s all about the orange and pink sunsets. Sitting on the sea facing balcony as the sun goes down would be a dream.

What would you say is a must-see or do in this area?

The best way to see this area is to put on your walking boots.
Cubert Common or Penpol creek circular for wildlife and bird spotting. Coastal path for stunning views, hidden coves and finding seals bobbing around in the sea. Or just walk into neighbouring villages and towns – Newquay and Hollywell.

Sea View sleeps 10, see the full details here.

Interested in staying in our most luxurious holiday cottages? Check out our luxury coastal cottages.

There’s no better way to appreciate a sea view than dining beside it, creating an enriching experience as you taste the flavours that the coastline in front of you has produced. We have hand picked 10 seafront restaurants, where you can sample seafood caught in the nearest bay and soak up views of the rolling tides. 

Porthminster Kitchen, St Ives

This acclaimed beachside restaurant combines Cornish produce and global flavours in dishes showcasing the freshest seafood, garden grown produce and foraged coastal ingredients. Recently awarded a 2 Rosette award for culinary excellence, this is a go-to destination for the finest of Cornish cuisine.

The Colonial, Tolcarne beach

A slow paced, lavishly designed restaurant and bar positioned right on the sand of Tolcarne beach in Newquay, The Colonial is the perfect dinner spot for those looking to unwind and indulge. Their menu is inspired by the colourful flavours of the Caribbean, but you can expect seafood and traditional hearty dinners throughout the year. Wave watch on the terrace with an invigorating cocktail or settle by the open fire for a full three courses and wine.

Lewinnick Lodge, Fistral

Lewinnick is the ultimate coastal restaurant. Situated on Pentire headland, you can soak up sweeping vistas as you eat, the perfect viewing spot for striking sunsets. With a bar area, pool tables, fireplace, plush carpets and sofas, you can wind down with a glass of something bubbly before heading to the sleek and sophisticated restaurant room for a classically Cornish supper.

The Mariners, Rock

A chef’s take on pub grub, washed down with the finest of Cornish beer. This loved-by-locals pub overlooks the Camel Estuary and serves up the likes of crispy pollock hot dogs, Porthilly oysters and market fish of the day from Cornish waters.

The Fish House, Fistral

If you’re a seafood lover, this beachfront restaurant is your go to. Situated on Fistral beach, the Fish House is in a prime position for sunsets and dramatic surf. Sample the flavourful menu of Sri Lankan prawn curry and spiced monkfish before walking across the beach back to your retreat.

Gylly Beach Café, Falmouth

Gylly Beach Café sits right on the sand, where you can gaze out at the ships and sailboats dotted along the water. It serves hot food and drinks all day and evening long, so taste the chilli kick of panko breaded squid or the zest of fresh lemongrass seabass with the buzz of the beach in the background.

Ugly Butterfly, Carbis Bay

There’s no such thing as an ugly butterfly, in the same way as there is no such thing as food waste. This is the motto of Carbis Bay’s new sustainable restaurant, showcasing beautifully presented dishes crafted with locally sourced ingredients. Offering an all-day dining experience, the Ugly Butterfly bar uses trims and offcuts from the ingredients used in the restaurant to create delicious drinks and bar snacks.

Outlaws New Road, Port Isaac

Nathan Outlaw is to Port Isaac as Rick Stein is to Padstow. For the ultimate fine dining experience, sample cured mackerel and spider crab at this harbourside eatery, before wandering the streets of Port Isaac under the moonlight.

The Beach Hut, Watergate Bay

One of Cornwall’s best beach-side hangouts, The Beach Hut welcomes surfers, families and even the dog. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, food is unfussy and tasty, the atmosphere laid-back, and all with a view of Watergate Bay’s two-mile stretch of beach out front. Perfect for sunset watching and sundowners.

The Sardine Factory, Looe

Dine overlooking harbour water and you’re guaranteed fish as fresh as they come. The Sardine Factory is a go-to restaurant for seafood lovers, and its sustainable fish dishes won the prestigious accolade of a Michelin Bib Gourmand in 2020.

Charlie Walters, head chef of The Sardine Factory, is currently representing Cornwall competing on this year’s Masterchef: The Professionals.

Stay in a retreat near the best Cornish restaurants and enjoy a foodie trip to the coast.

What’s klys to you?

Sauna-side chats, a growing community, warming cuisine in a warm environment and feelings of home. Here’s what klys means to Cornish experience creators, community farmers and chefs…

Find out why December is the best time to visit Cornwall and some of our favourite winter retreats.

As the curtains close on our exploration of klys, we visit local growers at the Loveland community farm, the new home of Situ café, Olla Hiki’s seaside sauna and the team at Canteen to find out what the ancient word means in our coastal community. While the specifics vary, at its essence, klys often encapsulates a glowing gratitude for being together and with nature. Opportunities in abundance here in Cornwall.

Find a klys retreat by the sea.

“The winter months are a more restful, recovery period for both the land and growers so there’s more time to chat over tea and biscuits”

Shared rest and recovery

The community field and vegetable garden in south Cornwall, Loveland, is alive with klys all year round. Gathered in waterproofs and wellies, locals plant trees and vegetables as wind whistles through trees and the earthy soil slides away to an ocean horizon.

Finn, Loveland’s coordinator, says: “Klys is that feeling of sharing seasonal food with friends and feeling the warmth of community. I’m always amazed by how many volunteers turn up even when the weather is awful, there’s something special about the fresh air and collectivity.

Image credit: George Brynmor

“We’ve even hosted some group events, including a traditional Cornish Apple Wassail ceremony to bless our community orchard. The winter months are a more restful, recovery period for both the land and growers so there’s more time to chat over tea and biscuits or around a fire.

“We have some winter vegetables growing, like broad beans and garlic, but it’s about nourishing the land to prepare for the growing season.”

“In terms of cosiness and flavours, Situ has warmth running through it. Our masala chai and golden turmeric milk are both naturally very warming drinks, with the spices brought over from India.”

A warm environment

After years on the move, the Ugandan-Asian inspired café Situ has opened up a permanent site that oozes sophisticated comfort from the moment you step inside. The brainchild of life partners, Sham and Alexa, there’s a tender attention-to-detail everywhere you look, from the hooks to hang up your coat, to the vases of dry flowers and the community notice board.

“Situ means environment so everything we do is conscious about space, the environment and how it makes our guests feel. We’ve incorporated pockets of autumnal greens and oranges to bring in the nature that our guests love,” Sham says.

“In terms of cosiness and flavours, Situ has warmth running through it. Our masala chai and golden turmeric milk are both naturally very warming drinks, with the spices brought over from India.

Image credit: Kasia Murfet

“Our menu is what we call heritage food, influenced by my own Indian-Ugandan roots. Last week, our featured dish was a hearty dahl and this week it’s a chickpea potato tamarind, which is a soupy curry. We combine traditional recipes and cooking techniques with locally-sourced ingredients to keep reinventing and moving modern cuisine forward.

“Situ brings together all the things that were comforting to me growing up. From the warming flavours and speciality coffee to the welcoming café culture. Hopefully, we can be a comfort to our guests, that’s our dream. That’s what klys means to us.”

“For me, klys is the feeling of opening up the sauna, lighting the fire with a crackle and looking out to the sea. It’s hearing people begin to chatter and laugh in this shared, safe space.”

Leave refreshed

From beaches to clifftops, the mobile Olla Hiki Sauna embraces the extremes of the soothing inside and the wild outdoors. Olla Hiki, which means to have a sweat in Finnish, is an immersive experience with an expansive sea view. From the revitalising warmth of the sauna, you can step out directly into nature and, for brave souls, venture into the salty water.

“I really missed sauna culture when I moved from Germany to the UK ten years ago. Especially during the winter months, they warm up your bones and feel extra cosy,” founder Sarah says.

Image credit: Evie Johnstone

“My whole idea is to connect people with their bodies, nature and each other. I want people to step out of the sauna and feel grass or sand under their feet, becoming completely present in the moment surrounded by the dramatic Cornish landscape.

“For me, klys is the feeling of opening up the sauna, lighting the fire with a crackle and looking out to the sea. It’s hearing people begin to chatter and laugh in this shared, safe space. It’s seeing people who arrive tense and leave refreshed. It feels such a beautiful thing to be able to provide.”

“I think we create a feeling of home at Canteen and you can’t get more klys than that.”

Feel at home

Nestled in the rugged landscape of Cornwall’s north coast, Canteen at the Eco Park has the ambiance of a snug living room that welcomes you home at the end of a long day. Its colourful, heart-warming menu experiments with vegetables grown just minutes away on the encircling land.

Chloe, the Canteen’s chef, says: “The space itself is quite like a cottage or ski chalet with its wooden-finish and natural materials. I think we create a feeling of home at Canteen and you can’t get more klys than that.

Image credit: Chloe Knight

“Our menus depend on what’s been grown so we have to be creative. It reminds me of my grandma opening the fridge and whipping something together with the ingredients we have. We always try to be inspired by the upcoming weather so, during the winter months, our meals are especially warming, filling and nourishing.

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“Today, we cooked beetroots on the fire, skinned them and made a puree for our beet borani, mixed with cardamom and cumin. We also had spicy rice, flatbread with sweet potato butter, crispy chickpeas, tahini, pickles and our famous mayo potatoes.

“At the heart of Canteen, we say it’s good people, good food. From the first-time customers who become regulars to the close-knit staff community, we’re one big family.”

Find your place by the sea for a klys break

Experience the magic of the season and discover festive nights at Watergate Bay.

Out in the wild

There’s a world of wildlife out there in the untamed coastal waters of Cornwall. Finding it requires patience, luck and respect. We struck out by boat in search of this natural wonder…

Still, transparent water, jagged, rocky cliffs, open, stretching skies: our view from Coast Boat Trips’ lively rib certainly delivers. But would the wildlife?

Embarking from Penzance we zip out to sea and towards Land’s End in search of marine animals in their natural habitat.

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Fast and fun, the boat bounces west to pass the harbour town of Mousehole and the dramatic cove at Pedn Vounder, before capturing a majestic view of the granite rocks where the Minack Theatre lives.

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“The captain slows the engine and we wait. Our patience is rewarded.”

As we swing around the peninsula at Land’s End, we spot a single dolphin emerging from the water about 30 metres away. The captain slows the engine and we wait. Our patience is rewarded. A pod of common dolphins gathers around the boat, jumping from the water. One dolphin comes up close to the left of the boat where we can see it swimming in the clear water.

All around the coastline we encounter different wildlife: seals stretched out on rocky outcrops, sea birds swooping and circling, shy porpoises swimming deep and emerging occasionally for air.

As we take in the sights, we get expert commentary on the local history, the marine conditions and wildlife, discovering that dolphins keep swimming even when asleep, slowly bobbing in and out of the water on autopilot.

Seasonal spotting

Our experience on the water around West Cornwall was magical and exciting, but how common is it to encounter marine wildlife around the coast?

“Summer and autumn are some of the busiest times for marine wildlife,” says Matt Slater, Marine Conservation Officer at Cornwall Wildlife Trust.

“Common dolphins are becoming an increasingly common sight around our coast; there’s a very high chance you’ll see them. They’re quite small and enjoy swimming in the wake of the bow wave created by a boat.”

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Image credit: Matt Slater

“Summer and autumn is also when ocean dwellers that like warmer water venture into Cornish waters. In the last six years we’ve also started seeing Atlantic blue fin tuna.”

As we found, porpoises, a smaller cetacean, are harder to spot. Matt says, like dolphins, porpoises are also likely to be seen in summer and autumn; although, sightings are also reported in spring.

Image credit: Niki Clear, Manx Wildlife Trust

And there’s a lot more possible encounters out there during this time of year, says Matt.

“Summer and autumn is also when ocean dwellers that like warmer water venture into Cornish waters.

“In the last six years we’ve also started seeing Atlantic blue fin tuna. They can reach two metres in length and can be seen when they’re coming to the surface to catch their prey,” Matt continues.

Another oceanic visitor is the leatherback turtle. “It’s the largest turtle species in the world. It has a soft shell and feeds on jellyfish. In a summer when we have a lot of jellyfish visiting, you have the most chance of seeing them,” explains Matt.

Matt says that seals are also thriving in Cornish waters, and during this time of year pregnant females, feeding on large amounts of fish, will stretch out in the sun to warm up.

“This helps them digest all the food they’re taking on for their pups. By late summer and early autumn they find secluded, peaceful coves to give birth.”

Image credit: Caz Waddell

Into winter and spring, while warm water visitors are absent, it might be the time to spot something bigger.

“We can also be visited by whales; the commonest is the minke whale, but we’ve also had records of much larger whales. If you’re out spotting wildlife in winter you could be extremely lucky and see a humpback or fin whale,” says Matt.

Wild encounters

With so much wildlife hunting, nesting and travelling through and around the Cornish coast it’s vital we keep them safe and help them to thrive.

Taking a guided tour to find wildlife helps ensure you’re respecting the animals you see and causing little disturbance. Often that’s about keeping your distance and using binoculars rather than trying to get too close. You can find out more about what to do via the Cornwall Marine and Costal Code.

If you’re visiting with your dog, it’s best to use a lead when walking near sea birds, advises Matt. Birds can be frightened and cliffs can be perilous for pets. During spring, dogs should avoid disturbing the ground-nesting skylarks that have their home in cliff-top habitats.

“If you do come across a seal on a beach or rocks, it’s important to keep dogs far enough away and on a lead to avoid disturbance or risk of injury,” says Matt.

While some beaches have restrictions on access for dogs during the summer, other beaches do not and there’s times at the beginning and end of the day when dogs are allowed on most beaches.

“Well behaved dogs are fine to be off the lead on the beach,” says Matt, “but you need to have good recall if you do spot wildlife so a dog can quickly be put on their lead.”

As we experienced, there’s an abundance of natural wonders out there to be found, with a little patience and luck on your side. And knowing what to do when you are lucky enough to encounter marine life helps make for a thriving coastal habitat.

Seeking wildlife at sea

All around the coast you can find wildlife spotting tours with good practices for limited marine disturbance.

Find out more about Coast Boat Trips and Cornwall Wildlife Trust’s marine conservation work. You can also visit the Cornwall Marine and Coastal Code website for more on caring for the marine life when out and about along the coast.

Browse our West Cornwall retreats, where you’ll be close to this thriving area of sea and wildlife. 

Lia Leendertz Q&A: on seasonal energy, hibernation and klys

We spoke to The Almanac author Lia Leendertz about tuning into the season, how she makes home more klys in the winter and the magic waiting to be discovered above us and below our feet in coming months…

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Photography by Kirstie Young

One of your intentions behind writing The Almanac is to “provide a set of keys to unlock various aspects of the seasons and help us all appreciate the moment we are in, rather than stumbling, blinkered, through the year.” Why do you think it’s important to avoid such stumbling?

We can live like that and a lot of us do. I probably do too. I’m not coming at it from the point of view that I am living fully in the moment all of the time.

But it is about mindfulness, about living in the moment, and experiencing things more fully than you might otherwise. That always has benefits mentally. I think there is so much to be appreciated about our seasons. On this island, we have relatively extreme seasons, we have a full range and it actually changes very frequently. And each month is actually pretty distinct. By February, the light is starting to come in and that there’s a hopeful, seed-sowing feeling and by March we’re fully into the anticipation of spring.

There are lots of marvels to be found right there in front of you that are a really lovely thing to appreciate once you tune into it.

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How does The Almanac help us experience more when we’re outside?

One of things I try to do with looking at the stars is to show that this big cosmic universe is literally right there. Take the bright planets, they can be spotted from the most rubbish of skies; you could be in a city centre and look up and see Mars.

“You’ll be able to look up at the night sky with a basic pair of binoculars and glimpse Saturn in all its glory.”

Being able to appreciate that even in our most urban environments and, then my goodness, in more rural places, like Cornwall, which are so great for seeing the stars. In all of these places you can tune into this big cosmic stuff and little, minute stuff in nature. It’s just so exciting, I think.

What are some of the smaller, unnoticed elements of the year you look at in the latest edition of your book?

Coming up, it’s those signs of spring that you can’t help but feel uplifted by, it’s quite ludicrous almost.

In December it can feel like winter is going on forever, all mud and sticks and then these little shoots come pushing through and it’s just irresistible, that feeling of hope, that the world keeps on turning is so reassuring: a little signal from the future, a pointer saying here it comes, all that good stuff, warmth, light, flowers, and buzzing bees, it’s all coming. Also the effect that the lengthening days has on us is irresistible. It takes me by surprise every year.

“We shouldn’t be fully emerging until early February, or early March. We should be tending to our energies in that way.”

And what about later in the year?

The theme for the 2023 edition is the solar system and zodiac – I’m looking at the stories behind the zodiac too.

I’ve been saving it up, because this is a particularly good year for spotting the planets. Sometimes they will line up with the sun so you can’t really spot them. But this year is going to be a really good year.

August is going to be really spectacular. Saturn is going to be at opposition; that’s basically when we are at our closest to it in the cycle, both on same side of sun, at our closest point. When we are looking at the night sky, the sun is shining on Saturn, sort of like a full moon. At the same time the rings are going to be open, be at their most visible. You’ll be able to look up at the night sky with a basic pair of binoculars and glimpse Saturn in all its glory.

There are other opportunities to see the planets just by looking up at the night sky with your own eyes, but Saturn is the big one for 2023.

“There is light coming and there are more active times coming, but this isn’t them, so let yourself have it.”

With klys, Cornish for snug and cosy, we’re looking at how the time we spend outside makes the time indoors more convivial and cosy during the winter months. Is that something you can relate to? 

Winter is when I most want to go for long walks and want to be outside, striding through the countryside, putting some distance under me, getting air into my lungs. I walk a lot more now that I’ve got dogs. Owning dogs, you don’t really get a choice, it doesn’t matter what the weather is like – the horrible wet weather or those lovely, crisp, fresh winter days.

What I have written a lot about in the 2023 edition is the idea of the cycle of the year in terms of our own energies. So in January and February allowing ourselves to be the mammals that we are, to hibernate a little, and not feel we have to thrust ourselves into the business world.

Holywell Bay

Of course, we do have to, but to try, within that, to find ways of being peaceful and calm, recognising that real need to not do the new year, new you thing. This is an entirely inappropriate time of year to be doing that!

“I make quite free with the candles these days. I try and light them every tea time and actually breakfast time as well.”

This is the hunkering down time, hibernation time. We shouldn’t be fully emerging until early February, or early March. We should be tending to our energies in that way. When you’re not out and about doing that active stuff, it’s about really allowing yourself to sink into that, in order to set ourselves up for the year ahead. There is light coming and there are more active times coming, but this isn’t them, so let yourself have it.

How do you create klys feelings inside at this time of year? 

I’m a big fan of candles perhaps even more so than fires. I feel like candles can give you a lot of that sort of atmosphere, that cosiness.

I make quite free with the candles these days. I try and light them every tea time and actually breakfast time as well. A breakfast candle is really gorgeous. It’s not about saving candles for best. Every day, and every morning, while it is still dark early in the morning; it doesn’t take any more time and just makes you settle in and feel: ‘ok, I’m allowed a little magic moment even in the most everyday of times’. Whether before you rush out to work or getting the kids to school, it’s a little, special cosy moment. So, yes, making free with the candles at all times.

We’ve looked at how connecting with the natural environment through foraging can bring something special to the table at this time of year. Do you have a foraging tip for right now?

Every week I go on woodland walk nearby and every week at the moment I’m scouring the ground looking for wild garlic shoots because they will start to come up really soon. They’re such an amazing and easy plant to forage, and so abundant when you find a patch.

It’s also very easy to identify, by smell as much as anything and has loads of uses. You can make very easy pesto and add it to bread, You can use it like chives and chuck it into all sorts of recipes. It’s a really good gateway plant into foraging generally. And a really nice sign the world is turning the way we want it to. I love the way that wild garlic just can’t resist, even if it’s so cold, if daylight is increasing it’s coming up, no matter what

Want to learn more about how to make the most of your travel? Read our blog on how to do slow travel.

Receive seasonal updates and more from Lia on Instagram, and find a copy of The Almanac 2023 here.

Find your klys retreat and embrace the seasons by the shoreline.