Author: gloversure

Natural signs

carlyon sunrise small

In the quiet hours on the beach, reading the signs of the sea, the fauna and the sky can make nature your ally.

It’s early morning, you’re up, and first to the beach. When you get there, you realise, you’ve forgotten to check the tides. Is the sea coming in or going out? How can you tell? One answer is to watch the birds.

Look at the sand around the tideline. If there are gulls, dippers and oystercatchers pecking around, odds are you’re looking at a falling tide. Lugworms, molluscs and other burrowing critters come up to feed as the tide recedes, and the seabirds are taking advantage of an easy feast.

Visiting Cornwall with an electric car? Check out our holiday lets with electric car (EV) charging points.

Reading the land (and sea)

If you know what to look out for, Cornwall’s coast is full of fascinating little clues like this. With a little knowledge, it’s possible to decipher everything from sea conditions to the weather forecast.

“Everyone comes to Cornwall to enjoy the view, but often they don’t look at the story behind the scenery,” says Hetty Wildblood, a kayaking guide who runs expeditions along the Helford River and around St Agnes. “It’s a skill you have to practise. But there’s so much information if you know where to look: geology, industry, biology, natural history.

“One example I often use is the cliff colours around St Agnes; all those vivid oranges, browns and reds. They’re caused by mineral deposits, especially from heavy metals like iron and tin – a visible reminder of the mining riches that once sustained Cornwall.”

Check out more of our locations and explore our St Agnes holiday cottages.
Wheal Coates St Agnes

Dunes (or towans, as they’re known here) are a common feature of many Cornish beaches. They’re an important coastal habitat – but they’re also weather vanes.

“So if you want to be sure of keeping your feet dry, pitch your blanket higher than the second, rather than the first, strandline.”

Dunes form perpendicular to the prevailing onshore wind, and their presence indicates a strong, persistent breeze: the greater the dunes, the greater and gustier the winds. The dunes can also tell you about the direction of the prevailing wind; the slope on the windward side will be shallower and easier to walk on, while the sand on the ‘slip’ side will be steep, softer and more unstable.

Prince of tides

You’re out on a brisk morning walk and it’s time to sit down to brew a morning coffee. How do you know where to pitch your picnic blanket?

Strandlines – the line of seaweed and ocean debris left behind by tides – are your friend here. There are usually at least two strandlines on most beaches. The one nearest to the sea marks the high point reached by the most recent tide. The second one, higher up the beach, marks the point reached during the last spring tide (sometimes, there’s also a third line, even further up the beach: this indicates the extent of the last storm surge).

So if you want to be sure of keeping your feet dry, pitch your blanket higher than the second, rather than the first, strandline; that way, even if you’re visiting on a spring tide, the water won’t reach you (unless you’ve decided to picnic in the teeth of an Atlantic storm, that is).

Another useful way of determining tidal range is to look at the rocks near the sea. Lichen grows in bands of colour; black at the bottom, orange or red in the middle, grey-green at the top. Only the black lichen is happy to grow underwater, so it’s also a natural signpost that indicates the high water mark.

Moon movements

How about the phenomenon of spring and neap tides? Contrary to what many people believe, spring tides actually have nothing to do with the season of spring: they refer to the extra ‘spring’ in the sea’s tidal range, which can be more than 20% above and below the average.

“If you’re close to a new moon or a full moon, you know the tide will be both lower and higher than usual.”

Spring tides occur twice a month (throughout summer, autumn and winter too!). They are caused by the extra gravitational pull that occurs when the sun and moon both line up with the earth – a phenomenon called syzygy. This happens at new moon (when the moon moves between the sun and the earth) and full moon (when the moon is on the opposite side of the earth). Neap tides occur (approximately) seven days either side.

hayle

So if you want to know what the tide is up to, have a look at the sky at night. If you’re close to a new moon or a full moon, you know the tide will be both lower and higher than usual. Since much more of the coastline is revealed during spring tides, you’ll also know that it’s the best time for a spot of rock-pooling or a long beach walk the next day.

Whither the weather

“I think it’s so important for people to learn these skills,” says Matt Slater, a marine biologist for the Cornwall Wildlife Trust. “Understanding the weather and the tides isn’t just useful, it makes your time on the beach safer, and more fun.

“One example I always give is that if you want to go snorkelling, go at low tide when the wind is blowing offshore. That way, you’ll be able to get down there and have a good look at the sea-bed. Likewise, if you want to go paddleboarding or kayaking safely, pick a beach where the wind is blowing onshore (towards the land); otherwise there’s a chance you’ll get blown out to sea. It seems obvious, but you’d be amazed by how few people understand it.”

“Mackerel sky, mackerel sky; never long wet, never long dry.”

Another useful clue about sea conditions is given by the glitter path – the line of light cast by the sun on the water. If the sea’s really calm, the glitter path will be narrow (no broader than the sun is wide). But when the sea’s rough, the high, choppy waves reflect more light, causing the glitter path to spread out and become more triangular.

If you’re deciding how to spend your beach hours for the day, the calmest conditions for swimming and paddleboarding will be the days when the dawn sun is lighting a narrow glitter path.

gwenver

Signals in the sky

Seabirds also foretell what the weather has in store. If they’re flying inland in numbers, chances are there’s bad weather brewing out to sea; if they’re heading in the opposite direction, it’s a sign of more settled conditions.

But for the clearest weather forecast, turn your eyes to the sky. “Red sky in the morning, sailor’s warning; red sky at night, sailor’s delight” chimes the old adage – and surprisingly, more often than not, it’s true.

Red skies at dawn are caused by light bouncing off high cirrus clouds, often an indication of an approaching weather front. Red skies at sunset usually indicate clear skies in the west; and since the UK’s weather systems generally move in from the Atlantic, a scarlet sunset is a good bet for fine weather tomorrow.

Lastly, there’s that most Cornish of cloud systems – a mackerel sky, in which bands of clouds run across the sky like the markings on a mackerel’s back. Here, another old saying comes in handy: “Mackerel sky, mackerel sky; never long wet, never long dry.” The pattern is usually caused by cirrocumulus clouds, which appear at the edge of weather fronts – meaning change is on the way.

So if it’s sunny now, the sudden appearance of a mackerel sky might mean it’s a good time to pack up and head for shelter. But if it’s raining where you are now, and a mackerel sky materialises, then you might be in luck – that dinner on the beach you’ve been hoping for may still be on the cards.

Discover more of Cornwall with our favourite places to watch the ocean and go sea spotting.

Find out more with:

korukayaking.co.uk

cornwallwildlifetrust.org.uk

What's your best #beachoutofhours moment

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Being footsteps from the beach means being able to make the most of the coast at dawn and dusk, the magic hours. Share your favourite shots of golden moments at the beach to be in with a chance to win the full reset and restore experience from land&water before delving into a luxury Cornish hamper.

We’ve loved exploring all that spending time out of hours at the beach has to offer. From the freeing experience of coastal running at sunrise to the art created from the unique light at sundown.

Post your photos from dawn or dusk at the beach on Facebook or Instagram (tagging @beachretreats and using #beachoutofhours so we don’t miss them!), along with a few words about why you chose the picture and where you were.

Sunset over Watergate Bay

We’ll choose our favourite shots to share on Facebook and Instagram, and the Beach Retreats team will vote for the overall winner.

We’ll send the competition winner a land&water Bathtime bundle. Soak, glow, breathe, moisturise…reset and restore, to light up the day’s downtime and emerge lifted – and softer all over.

The bundle includes one Bath Salts 250g, one Candle 220g, one Bath & Body Oil 100ml, and one Body Lotion 250ml.

You’ll also receive a luxury Cornish Hamper to pack-up for a long day out, or to kick-back with when you get home.

Competition deadline: midnight, Wednesday 28 July 2021. The winner will be notified by 4th August 2021. Good luck!

Full terms and conditions:

    • There’s no limit to the number of entries per person. By entering, you give Beach Retreats and land&water permission to share and reproduce your pictures on our website, and social media channels.

 

    • If your photograph features any person or people, they should be aware that they are being photographed and permission should be obtained from all involved.

 

    • You must be the sole author and owner of the copyright for all images entered. You will retain copyright of your entries at all times and always be credited alongside your picture.

 

    • No cash alternative for prize winner.

 

    • The winner will be notified on Facebook or Instagram.

 

    • The winning photo will be chosen by a judging panel.

 

Six places to watch the sunrise in Cornwall

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Its 6am and you’ve stepped, still bleary eyed, out of your door and down towards the empty stretch of sand. Soft amber light appears to float in the atmosphere- it is not like the harsh mid-day sun which causes you to squint, rather, this light is gentle, inviting, warm. Slowly becoming more awake and alert, you look at the ocean, glimmering in the morning haze as the large orange ball of the sun steadily rolls itself up into the sky.

The magic of the sunrise hours can’t be overstated- it is a peaceful time, before the crowds flock to the sand, where you truly feel like the shoreline belongs to you alone. With all of our properties positioned footsteps from the beach, we have compiled a list of the six best places to see the sunrise, to tempt you out of bed and towards the golden glow of first light.

Want to stay in a luxury holiday house with a view of the sea? Check out our cottages with sea views.

Carlyon Bay

With its south-facing stretch of soft sand, Carlyon Bay, near St Austell, is the place to capture a picture-perfect sunrise. The sun paints the sky with tones of pink and orange which perfectly contrast with the pale blue of the sea in the morning light. The beach will be largely empty at this time in the morning, the only company being the birds wandering around freely as you leave the day’s first footprints in the sand.

Want to stay in Carylon Bay? Check out our luxury Carylon Bay holiday properties.

Whitsand Bay

Whitsand Bay runs from Rame Head to Portwrinkle, and its sheer cliffs, long stretches of beach and panoramic scenery make for a dramatic sunrise. Head onto the clifftop to capture the purple sky as the sun bursts its first light above the sloping fields. You may even be joined by some sheep, who populate the clifftop, to watch it with you.

Gyllyngvase Beach, Falmouth

Falmouth’s Gylly Beach is famed as a swimming spot, stand-up paddleboarder’s dream and for its vibrant beachfront café. Yet head down at dawn and you will experience a different atmosphere. As the sun rises, the water takes on a glassy effect and mirrors the kaleidoscope of colours spread across the sky. Spot the daisies that line the beach complimenting the pink hues around them.

Fowey

To catch the sun breaking into the sky admist a serene harbour setting, try Fowey. The masts and sails of harbour boats will point upwards towards the orange splash of colour that rises above the seaside town. The sunrise here is the perfect time to enjoy the sights of Fowey in peace before the lively chatter of the working harbour life takes hold throughout the day.

Mevagissey

Cobbled streets usually packed with beachgoers and fisherman alike are empty in Mevagissey at sunrise, touched only by the soft sun rays which fill the atmosphere. Wander the harbour walls as if they belong to you alone at the calmest point in the day, experiencing this classic Cornish village in a new and ethereal light.

Coverack

Situated on the Lizard Penninsula, Coverack is one of the most Southerly points in Cornwall to watch the suns first light greet the land. Its small pebbly beach is like a secret haven, kissed by the first rays of light which will soon awaken the rest of Cornwall for a lively day of beach trips and water sports. Listen to the trickle of the water as it runs down the rocks which line the shore.

Explore the captivating contrasts of dawn and dusk along the Cornish coast, each offering its own magical ambience and breathtaking views.

Cook & Carry from your Beach Retreat

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Longer days full of spring sun, perfect for outdoor evening dining with your toes in the sand, even if it’s not quite barbecue weather. Living to the beat of the ocean, a pebble’s throw from the shore, a Beach Retreats kitchen is the perfect place to whip up a gourmet feast you can take to the beach. Tempted?

Interested in staying in our most luxurious holiday cottages? Check out our luxury coastal cottages.

cook and carry

Cook up one of these recipes from chefs around Cornwall and carry down to the beach for an end of the day alfresco meal beside the waves. There’s something for everyone, from a Cornish crab centrepiece to beach-ready pizza. Just remember, leave enough room in the bag for beach blankets and wine.

SMOKED CHICKEN WITH SALSA VERDE POTATOES

Canteen

Newquay Community Orchard; St Agnes
canteencornwall.com
@canteencornwall

Who said roast chicken is best enjoyed at the Sunday dinner table? With his sociable dining, seasonal ingredients and sustainable ethos, chef Ben Quinn has a firm following. Taking field to fork to a new level at his new venue in Newquay Orchard, much of the produce comes from the market garden just footsteps from the kitchen.

“Cold smoked chicken is one of my favourite dishes. On holiday you’ve got time to smoke this on the BBQ or even roast it in the oven the day before. Then tear and share it on the beach with crusty bread and salsa verde potatoes. It’s a real feast that doesn’t need to be eaten at home.” Ben Quinn

Elevate your beach BBQ game with expert tips and tricks on perfecting a beach BBQ with our guide!

Smoked Chicken

You will need a BBQ with a lid or simply roast in the oven.

Ingredients

  • Whole chicken (the best quality you can afford)
  • 100g table salt
  • 50g caster sugar
  • 3kg decent charcoal (if you’re barbecuing)
  • 150ml cider vinegar
  • 30g soft brown sugar

Cook it up

Get the chicken out of the fridge and season liberally with salt and caster sugar.
Leave at least an hour at room temperature or overnight back in the fridge, if you’re
organised.

Get the chicken out an hour before cooking and set up the barbecue in an offset
position (fire on one side so the food can go on the other side), or warm up the oven
to 180C.

Once the oven is hot, or the coals are white and hot, add the chicken (in the BBQ on
the side with no direct heat. The indirect heat will cook the chicken with the flavour of
the smoke.)

Put the lid on the BBQ and leave it alone. Or pop it in the centre of the oven and do
the same.

Salsa Verde Potatoes

Ingredients

  • 50g basil (picked)
  • 50g mint (picked)
  • 50g flat-leaved parsley (picked)
  • 20g tarragon (picked)
  • 1 tsp capers
  • 1 gherkin (diced)
  • 1 clove garlic (crushed with salt)
  • 150ml olive oil
  • 50ml cider vinegar
  • 800g new potatoes

Cook it up

Chop up the fresh herbs finely and put them in a bowl that will fit all the ingredients
including the potatoes.

Add the rest of the ingredients and stir. Taste, then add more oil, vinegar or salt until
it is popping inside your mouth.

Add the potatoes to boiling, salty water and boil for 20 minutes.

Check the potatoes with a sharp knife (in and out, and we are all good), then drain
and allow to steam and cool a little.

Add them to the salsa verde until well coated and the room smells like herbs.

Repeat after me: “I dress my potatoes when they are hot.” When you do this, it will bring joy.

MACKEREL FLATBREAD – ‘The Mac Dough’

Ansum

Roaming food from the fire – Watergate Bay, Mawgan Porth and across Cornwall.
ansumfoodco.com
@ansumfood

Fancy staying in Mawgan Porth? Have a look at our Mawgan Porth holiday properties.

Photo credit: ANSUM

Ansum Food Co started out in Mawgan Porth in 2016, when Amie and John converted a French horse truck into a wood-fired kitchen. Passionate about keeping things local, since then they have been cooking on the fire all over Cornwall. Often parked up footsteps from the beach, favourite spots include Watergate Bay and Mawgan Porth.

“This dish was one of the first meals that left the hatch of our truck, and it went down an absolute storm. You can get fresh mackerel in abundance in Cornwall in spring and early summer – catch your own or visit a local fishmonger for the freshest available.” John Stamp.

Makes 4

Ingredients

4 mackerel fillets – ask your fishmonger to fillet your mackerel, unless of course you
have caught your own, in which case, find the sharpest knife and a steady hand.

Dough

Don’t be daunted by making dough. It can be fun, everyone can get involved, and it doesn’t have to be perfect.

  • 500g bread flour – we use The Cornish Mill House, St Newyln East
  • 300g warm water
  • 20g salt
  • 20g fresh yeast (5g dried yeast can be used)

Pickles

  • 1 cucumber – slice thinly/mandolin
  • 100ml cider vinegar
  • 50ml water
  • 50g sugar
  • Pinch salt
  • 2 sprigs of dill

Tartare Sauce

  • Mayonnaise (we make our own but it’s not a sin to use shop bought)
  • 1 tbsp gherkin – chopped
  • 1 tbsp capers – chopped
  • 1 shallot – finely chopped
  • 1 lemon – zest and juice
  • Flat-leaf parsley – chopped
  • 4 handfuls of rocket
  • 4 slices of lemon

Cook it up

Dough

To make the dough, combine all your ingredients in a large bowl and get kneading.
15 minutes by hand should do it.

Split the dough into four portions, make into a ball, dust with flour and leave covered
with a tea towel until doubled in size (approx. 2 hours.)

Use plenty of flour and start to shape your dough – you can use a rolling pin at this
point.

Fry each flatbread in a medium hot pan for a couple of minutes on each side (you
can let them cool and finish them on the BBQ).

Pickles

For the pickles, make your brine by combining the vinegar, water, sugar and salt.
Simmer on a low heat for five minutes.

Meanwhile slice your cucumber thinly and add to a kilner jar (or jam jar).

Pour over your pickling brine and add the dill, leaving the lid ajar until completely
cooled. This can last in the fridge for a week.

Tartare sauce

Chop up all your ingredients for your tartar sauce, stir them up and season with
salt, pepper and lemon juice.

Mac Doughs

Light a BBQ and start to heat your flatbreads – they won’t take long so keep an eye
on them.

When they are hot, pop them on a plate and add a good spoon of tartar sauce and a
handful of rocket.

Cook the mackerel skin down on a very hot BBQ, flip them if needed after a couple
of minutes.

Add your mackerel fillet on top of the rocket, throw on some pickles with a squeeze
of lemon and a pinch of salt.

Fold it up, pack it up and head to the beach to tuck in!

HENK’S BEACH BUNS

Trevisker’s Kitchen Padstow

treviskers.com
@treviskerskitchen

Photo credit: Trevisker’s Kitchen

While known for his succulent steaks, building on decades of know-how from his cattle-farming grandfather, South African-born Henk de Villiers Ferreira – based at Trevisker’s Kitchen on the outskirts of Padstow – is now very much part of the culinary landscape of Cornwall.

“My beach bun is where pizza meets the Chelsea bun! They’re simple but delicious, and the best part is, you can put whatever you like in there. Bake them up at home then share them round at the beach. Forget the cutlery, just enjoy.”

Photo credit: Trevisker’s Kitchen

Ingredients

  • 1 pizza dough (shop-bought is fine)
  • Tomato purée
  • Grated cheese (cheddar or mozzarella)
  • Olive oil
  • Oregano
  • Salt & pepper

Cook it up

Roll out your pizza dough.

Smear on a layer of tomato purée.

Sprinkle with grated cheese.

Roll up your pizza dough.

Slice into rounds – these should look like little pizza swirls.

Place the rounds into an oiled up roasting tin.

Leave to prove for about 30 minutes.

Sprinkle a little cheese on top.

Season with oregano, salt and pepper.

Bake at 180C for 25 minutes.

Head to the beach.

Photo credit: Trevisker’s Kitchen

CRAB SAFFRON AND TOMATO TART WITH KOHLRABI REMOULADE

The Packet Inn, Roseudgeon, Penzance

thepacketinn.co.uk
@thepacketinnsmokehouse

Photo credit: The Packet Inn

Ben Tunnicliffe and Matt Smith are making the most of The Packet’s rural location, with meat and fresh produce from the surrounding farming country, as well as seafood from Newlyn. Local sourcing and seasonality dictates, with a tempting array of small plates that evolves on a daily basis.

“This is a tasty Cornish take on a savoury tart and a great way to enjoy local crab meat. Cut the tart into slices and store in an air-tight container, add a tub of the kohlrabi remoulade too and pop in a cool bag – you’ll have a special centrepiece for your picnic!”

For the pastry:

Ingredients

  • 12 inch fluted loose bottomed tart ring
  • 300g plain flour
  • 170g cold diced butter
  • 1 egg beaten
  • Pinch of salt

Cook it up

Pre-heat the oven to 175C.

Rub the butter into the flour until it resembles breadcrumbs (or blitz in a food
processor). Add the salt and the egg and bring the mixture together as a dough. Rest
the dough for approx. 20 mins.

Roll out to the thickness of approx. a 50p

Line the tart case, pressing the pastry into the edges of the tart ring. Rest for 20 mins
in the fridge.

Then either dock using a fork or line with silicone and baking beans. Bake in the pre-
heated oven until golden brown and cooked, around 12-15 mins.

Remove from the oven and brush with some beaten egg, then return to the oven
until the egg has set which should take about 3 – 4 mins (this provides a barrier to
the pastry to keep it crisp).

For the tomato sauce:

Ingredients

  • 1 large onion, diced
  • 3 cloves garlic, crushed
  • Sugar
  • White wine vinegar
  • 400g chopped tomatoes
  • Picked and chopped fresh thyme

Cook it up

Fry the onions and garlic in a little oil until softening and starting to colour.

Add sugar and caramelise. Deglaze with the vinegar and reduce until almost dry.

Add the tomatoes and cook until thick and intensely flavoured, then taste and season
with salt and pepper.

For the tart:

Ingredients

  • 5 tbsp tomato sauce (see above)
  • 4 oz brown crab meat
  • 6 oz white crab meat
  • ½ pt double cream
  • 2 whole eggs
  • 1 egg yolk
  • A good pinch of saffron
  • Salt and pepper
  • Fresh herb such as dill, tarragon, chervil

Cook it up

Pre-heat the oven to 140˚C.

Bring the cream to the boil with the saffron and leave covered to infuse for 20
minutes or so.

Mix the brown crab meat with the tomato sauce and adjust the seasoning if
necessary. Spread over the base of the tart.

Scatter the white crab meat over the top of the tomato and brown meat base and

scatter with fresh finely chopped herbs.

Re-boil the cream and whisk the eggs and yolk together – add the hot cream to the
egg mixture and mix thoroughly. Season to taste and pour into the tart case, then
bake at approx 140C for about 20 minutes or until the custard is set.

Kohlrabi Remoulade:

Ingredients

  • 500g kohlrabi cut into matchsticks
  • 4 egg yolks
  • 4 tbsp white wine vinegar
  • 1 tbsp grain mustard
  • ¾ pt vegetable oil
  • ¼ pt extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 tbsp finely chopped capers
  • 2 tbsp finely chopped gherkins
  • 2 finely chopped anchovies
  • Freshly chopped parsley, chervil, tarragon and chives

Cook it up

Emulsify the egg yolks with the mustard and vinegar and season.

Continue to whisk while slowly adding the oil until all the oil is incorporated and is the
consistency of mayonnaise.

Add the herbs, capers, gherkins and anchovies and mix thoroughly.

Add the kohlrabi and stir in – taste and adjust seasoning if necessary.

Enjoy a Stein’s meal at your beach retreat

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Stein’s at Home boxes deliver the excitement of a chef’s kitchen to your doorstep, inviting you to simply finish off the cooking process and tuck in to these classic dishes in the comfort of your own home or holiday retreat. In a time where going out to eat is not quite what it once was, the lavishness of fine dining can now be replicated in your home, your kitchen filling with the aroma of Cornish-sourced seafood and fragrant herbs and spices. We tried and tested the boxes ourselves and the process couldn’t be easier- with the dishes all pre-prepared, all you are required to do is finish them off using a hob, oven, grill and microwave (watch us in action on Instagram at 12 270 North, Fistral).

Fancy staying in a holiday retreat with a swimming pool? Check out our cottages with a swimming pool for a relaxing getaway.

 

All Beach Retreats guests will be sent a unique discount code ahead of their arrival.

Scallops sizzle under the grill, hazelnut and coriander butter melting and bubbling down the cracks of the shells. You plate them up, directly onto a bed of seaweed, before tasting the salty flavour of the sea that cuts through the richness of the butter as you mop the scallops up with a serving of crusty sourdough bread.

steins

Up next, lobster thermidor meat soaks up the creaminess of a Vermouth sauce as it cooks. Topped with the twang of Parmesan cheese, you tuck in straight from the shell, alternating rich mouthfuls with the zestiness of new potatoes and locally picked salad leaves.

steins

You finish the meal with a chocolate pavé, the softness of clotted cream wrapping around the crunch of crystallised hazelnuts.

The boxes are an amalgamation of fresh Cornish & British seafood and Rick’s classic dishes, providing you with a flavour-enriched experience which matches that of restaurant dining. The three-course options serve two and range from the lobster menu, with grilled scallops to start, the Indonesian curry menu with a fish and shellfish soup, to a classic steak menu with a smoked salmon starter and vegetarian menu featuring a cashew nut curry and pau bhaji. Other options include mains of turbot and St Edenoc asparagus, hake, coq au Riesling or sea bass, and you can also order a Breakfast Box, Fresh Fish Box or Rick Stein’s Cornish Charcuterie Box. Each menu is carefully crafted by Jack Stein and fellow chefs, using seafood from the Cornish coast wherever possible and always including the freshest ingredients.

If your retreat has a balcony, take your dishes outside for an al-fresco dining experience. With all of our properties just moments from the beach, admire the scenery beyond your windows as you eat, with a glass of the Charlie Stein recommended wine to accompany your dishes. We know that there’s no better way to enjoy the comfort of your property than an evening in with some decadent cuisine, and therefore all of our Beach Retreats guests will receive an exclusive discount on any Stein’s at home box of choice.

If your box leaves you craving more of the Stein’s flavour palette, head out to one of his various restaurants around Cornwall to sample more of the menu in the stylish interiors of his award-winning eateries. Or, if the home preparation has left you feeling inspired, dive into Rick Stein’s very own cooking school in Padstow, where you can attend courses and workshops on how to recreate his foodie magic.

Fancy staying in Padstow and experiencing some of Rick Stein’s restaurants first hand? Check out our luxury holiday lets in Padstow.

Discover the best local eats during your self-catering holiday in Cornwall with Beach Retreats.

Photos taken at 12 270 North, Fistral.

Thing to do in Cornwall this Spring

hannah grab 1

Finally, the time has come. As April has arrived and spring is blooming, we are also slowly regaining our freedoms. This means that we can once again explore and enjoy Cornwall in all its glory.

Thinking of visiting in the February half term, check out what activities we recommend trying in February.

Yet despite the irresistible call of the ocean and the sunshine, this year will once again be different. We’ve put together this handy guide with some ideas on how to make the most of Cornwall this spring, whilst avoiding the crowds and embracing the new normal.

Fancy staying in a holiday retreat with a swimming pool? Check out our cottages with a swimming pool for a relaxing getaway.

Surfing

The expanse and variety of Cornwall’s beaches means that there is enough sea to go around for everyone, and what better way to enjoy the spacious outdoors than getting in amongst the waves? If you don’t feel super confident hitting the surf alone, Cornwall’s Women and Waves Society run group classes and trips to make surfing fun and accessible for all women.

women and waves

Wild Swimming

If surfing isn’t your thing, there are still plenty of ways to get a daily dose of H20 and enjoy Cornwall’s glittering oceans. Try taking a dip in a cove of your choice- there are plenty of popular spots to head to so you can ensure your swim is safe. Simply immerse yourself in the icy blue water, letting your body relax and restore as you leisurely float. Warning- it may take your breath away!

Find a secret beach

The beauty of Cornwall’s beaches means that in peak times, they can get very busy. If you’re looking to avoid the crowds this summer and carve out a more tranquil spot for yourself, why not try and hunt for a secret beach? Cornwall’s rugged coastline means that it is home to many hidden gems where you can soak up the sun in peace. Finding the perfect spot may take a bit of adventuring, but it is possible- start with the lesser-known treasures of Porth Joke beach in Crantock and Housel Bay in the Lizard.

Walk the Coast Path

Where in Cornwall could you find more open space and picture-book scenery than along the many coastal paths that line the county? With fresh air a key to reducing the spread of Covid, fill your lungs and walk along miles of uninterrupted clifftops. Check out the South West Coast Path website for directions on how to access the UK’s longest and best-loved National Trail. This 630-mile-long path is walking distance from all our properties, so leave the car behind and stretch your legs across a section of this magnificent walk.

Gyllyngvase

Dine With Iris

With dining in busy spots less of an option this year, bring the leisurely experience of dining out to an outdoor space with Dine with Iris’s personal pop-up picnics. She will supply you with a delicious seasonal grazing board, pillows and rugs, themed flowers, a Bluetooth speaker and much more. You don’t need to worry about setting up or packing it up, this is all taken care of. So, bring a few loved ones along and enjoy a Cornish picnic in style.

dine with iris

Outdoor Yoga

To fully embrace the more peaceful spring we will be having, away from large crowds, why not channel this energy into an activity devoted to tranquillity? Here in Cornwall, you will find many outdoor yoga groups, some offering beach sessions which will allow you to sync your breathing with the calming crash of the ocean waves. Check out Alicia Ray Wellbeing for private classes, or even just bring a mat and a calm mind and give it a go in a quiet corner of the beach.

Alicia Ray Credit: Alicia Ray

Visit a garden

Not only does it offer miles of untouched coastline, Cornwall is also home to some of the nation’s most exotic gardens, bursting with the colours and scents of summer. Many of these can be visited this spring abiding with social distancing regulations. Delve into the tropical terrain of Trebah gardens, where you will find acres of sweeping flowers, jungle-like trees and secret ponds, all leading towards a secluded and sunny beach at the bottom of the valley. Stray from the crowds and into the embrace of nature.

Watch the sunrise

The best way to avoid the crowds is to get up before them. All of our properties are walking distance from the beach so you can easily stroll down first thing in the morning, where you can enjoy the quieter hours. Early in the morning, you will see the first golden rays of sunlight which shine beautifully onto the untouched sand- you will truly feel as though the beach belongs to just you. If you are more of a night owl than an early bird, head out at sunset time to soak up the more peaceful atmosphere of later in the day.

BBQ on the beach

To enjoy a meal in your own space, why not head down to a secluded spot of the beach for a BBQ dinner? Many of Cornwall’s beaches allow private BBQ’s, so long as you leave no trace once you’re done. So, sit back and relax, with a sizzling burger and a bottle of something cold, as you dine al fresco. You can visit a nearby butcher or food store to source some fresh and organic ingredients to cook with. Just remember to bring a blanket to stay warm in the open air as the spring sun dips lower in the sky.

Travel by bike

Cornwall is home to many great cycle trails, and these can be a fun way to stray from the beaten path and explore away from the crowds and the holiday traffic. The Camel Trail, which ranges from Padstow to Bodmin, offers an 18 mile stretch of scenery and fresh Cornish air. Whilst cycling along the historic disused railway line, you can stop off at some quieter spots along the way where you may catch a glimpse at some fascinating Cornish wildlife. For more experienced cyclists, why not stray from the path and explore the many little villages and country lanes which lead off from the trail?

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Walk through Porthcothan

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Meander down flower-lined paths, across white sand and above tropic-like lagoons on this short scenic stroll.

Lowenna from our marketing team takes us on a walk-through from Porthcothan Bay to the mesmerising Trescoe Islands.

It’s the morning of April 13th, and the spring sunshine feels surprisingly warm on my face as I head through the gate into the National Trust fields overlooking Porthcothan, where this walk begins. The fields gently slope towards the strip of sea in the distance, and acres of yellow of gorse beyond contrast with the bright blue of the sky. This view would make for a perfect painting, with its pops of primary colours. I can smell the sea breeze from here, its salty whisper inviting me towards the sand. When you depart on this route, be sure to stop and indulge in this moment- the feeling of promise at the beginning of a walk, when you can see the ocean that awaits.

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Crossing green grass, you will be led down a winding coastal path, the gap between you and the sand below marked with a row of white hawthorn blossom. You will then cross a small bridge onto the bay, or if you fancy it, bare your feet and paddle through the gentle river. I reach the main stretch of beach and delight in the serenity of it- the skies are clear and it’s a popular time of year for holiday makers, yet the bay remains almost empty except for the occasional dog walker in the distance.

The walk across the bay is the perfect time to delight in the little things- the ebbs and patterns that the tide has formed in the sand, the geometrical structure of the rocky cliffs that line the cove, the odd gull soaring high in the sky. Head towards the left-hand side of the beach, where you can follow the cliffs around the corner and find the hidden coves which lie tucked away.

Out to sea, you can see Porthcothan’s iconic rocks and islands, striking in their stand-alone structure. This part of the beach starts to feel more like a Greek island, with its rich turquoise water and rocky sea stacks. It’s crucial to do this walk at low tide, when the water grants you entry to the secret lagoon behind Trescore Islands. At high tide, the vast swathes of sand disappear but the headlands protect the sea from the ocean swell, meaning the water is generally calm.

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There is a footpath here which is only accessible at low tide and leads you towards Trescore Islands, the end destination of this walk. I clamber up, excited by what might await on the other side of the scattered cliffs. The coastal breeze which meets you as you stand atop the cliff is refreshing under the heat of the spring sun. This path joins the South West Coast path, and in just a few meters, the lagoon of Trescore islands comes into sight. The tide must be fully out to be able to access the pool at ground level and swim in the water, so clear that you can see patterns of rocks and sand on the seabed.

After taking in the tropical feel of this private corner of the beach, I begin to head back along the coast path. However, if the beauty of this scenery leaves you wanting more, the walk can be continued along the South West coast path, where you can head North to Constantine Bay or South to the iconic Bedruthan steps. Feeling hungry? Just follow the coast path inland to find Porthcothan Bay stores, where you’ll find fresh takeaway food alongside surf hire, local produce and gifts. Tuck into a hot, foamy coffee and flaky pastry to refuel and delight in the peace and quiet that Porthcothan has to offer.

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Out of hours at the beach…

nick

Where the magic happens

“The golden and unpeopled bays
The shadowy cliffs and sheep-worn ways
The white unpopulated surf…”
– Sir John Betjeman, ‘Delectable Duchy’ (1974)

When Sir John Betjeman waxed lyrical about Cornwall’s ‘golden and unpeopled bays’, he immortalised in words something that so many of us hold dear: that special feeling of being on the beach outside of ‘normal’ hours – and of having these elemental expanses all to ourselves.

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Credit: Nick Pumphrey

Whether at first or last light, staying steps from the shore means freedom to explore the beauty of the coast without the crowds – taking in the sights, sounds and scents of nature undisturbed.

The gleeful liberation of a sunrise dip. The thrill of leaving the day’s first footprints in the sand. The peace of a sunset stroll in a sheltered cove. In these quiet, fleeting pockets of time at dawn and dusk, the magic of the beach feels magnified – bathed in a mellow golden glow and shimmering with promise.

But this glow isn’t just imagined, remembered through the haze of happy escapades. It’s a recognised phenomenon, and it has a name: golden hour. Prized by photographers and artists for the elusive but intense warm light it casts, golden hour refers to the window when day merges with night: the period shortly after sunrise or just before sunset, when the sun hovers at the horizon.

Out of hours Credit: Nick Pumphrey

Is there any science behind these seemingly gilded moments? When the sun is low in the sky, its rays have to travel much further through the atmosphere to reach us than they do at noon. This longer path lessens the amount of intense, direct sunlight we see, amplifying shadow-softening, scenery-illuminating, diffused light instead. Blue light becomes scattered as beams of sunlight hit molecules in the atmosphere, leaving warm, red-toned light in its place.

Depending on the season and where you are in the world, the time at which golden hour falls will vary (and it’s rarely exactly one hour long) – but its effects are universally enchanting. And while brief, the coastal golden hours we bask in leave their mark on us in memory.

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Credit: Alicia Ray Wellbeing

For people who live by the sea, it’s the freedom of these peaceful, often deserted moments out of hours that really counts.

In our new OUT OF HOURS series, we meet three inspiring locals who know just how to make the most of these golden moments between night and day. From the ocean photographer capturing aquatic dawns to the beach yoga instructor teaching calm in the dunes and the artist using paint to evoke the essence of moving water, take a few quiet moments to dive into their stories with us…

• “The evening light here is especially magical,” says artist Nell Kerr, who captures the ever-changing nature of the ocean’s surface in paint. “There are fewer people around and often the wind drops and the water takes on a glassy languor that is so beautiful and ethereal.” Read Nell’s story.

• “I think what makes the sunrise and sunset special is the serenity,” says beach yoga instructor Alicia Ray. “There’s a magic when you sense that others are connecting to the same energy as you.” Read Alicia’s story.

• “The blue hour, just before sunrise, is when it all starts to wake up – you can have incredible colour, sometimes the best colour is before the sun comes up,” says photographer Nick Pumphrey, whose project ‘Dawn Days’ has captured every sunrise swimming in the sea since 1 January 2021. “A few mornings there were three different colour shows, it was incredible. I’d be floating there alone, literally just hooting out loud at these natural displays. No one else around. It was pretty special.” Read Nick’s story.

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Out of hours Credit: Nick Pumphrey

Out of hours: At the beach with Nell Kerr

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Cornish artist Nell Kerr evokes the ever-changing spirit of the ocean in paint. From roaring waves to sparkling ripples, her paintings get up close and personal with the surface of the water – exploring how the light interacts with it, how it swells and flows. Nell’s studio sits right next to a stream that feeds into the creeks of the beautiful Helford River, giving her unlimited access to the South Cornwall coast any time the mood takes her.

She downed brushes to tell us about the joys of having the beach to yourself, the hypnotic effect of the sea, and the art of capturing that magical last light, as part of our Out of Hours content series.

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Nell Kerr Credit: Nell Kerr

When I start a painting, the first thing I look for is the light.

The same scene can be completely changed by the conditions minute to minute, which is what makes living close to the sea so inspiring. The water reflects what is happening around it, meaning it’s different every time you look.

Having the coastline close by brings so many opportunities, whether that’s swimming, surfing, boating, walking the coast paths, or just sitting by the water. I feel incredibly lucky to have the Falmouth Bay and Helford coastline on my doorstep. It really is a beautiful place, with so much variety of landscape.

“The same scene can be completely changed by the conditions minute to minute, which is what makes living close to the sea so inspiring.”

What I love most about Falmouth and Helford is that there’s always something new to see and to notice. It’s in constant flux. Tide, light, weather – it’s an endless resource for paintings.

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I spend a lot of time in, on and next to the water. I think we approach life through the prism of our interests, so where some people see a surfable wave, I see a painting opportunity.

Psychologists have studied the human response to natural fractals such as waves, and the evidence suggests that there is a stress-reduction effect that is somehow triggered by a physiological resonance inside the eye. In fact, a 1986 NASA study measured a significant decrease in participants’ stress response when they were viewing fractal images. I think it’s something we can all relate to – who doesn’t love gazing at the sea? It’s hypnotic. I wanted to replicate this effect in my paintings.

Early mornings before the beaches get busy are always an inspiring time, the sun still low in the sky and very few people about. There’s something really special about having a beach to yourself, even if only for a little while. It’s a real privilege.

The evening light here is especially magical. There are fewer people around and often the wind drops and the water takes on a glassy languor that is so beautiful and ethereal.

Nell Kerr Credit: Nell Kerr

“There’s something really special about having a beach to yourself, even if only for a little while. It’s a real privilege.”

On a practical level, the surface of water is a challenging subject to study and so provides myriad learning opportunities for me as a painter. I enjoy playing with micro versus macro, and the illusory nature of scaling up the tiny waves that break on the shoreline. I also love the meditative exercise of attempting to capture the light in a way that transports.

My studio sits right next to a stream that feeds into one of the Helford creeks, which is a constant reminder that the river and its beaches are right there whenever I need them.

I usually take photographs and make sketches outdoors and then work from them in my studio. But there is definitely a more immediate quality when working from life that I hope to take advantage of now that the weather is being kinder.

I love being out on the water in our Canadian canoe with my camera to hand. It’s a wonderful way to get really close to the water’s surface much further out from the shore where the water behaves differently. It’s also a really fun and non-intrusive way to explore the coastline and see it from a different perspective.

Immersing myself in the water gets my eyes on a level with the surface, which I love. That experience then informs my work; it’s an effect I enjoy trying to replicate in my paintings.

“The evening light here is especially magical. There are fewer people around and often the wind drops and the water takes on a glassy languor that is so beautiful and ethereal.”

Spending so long gazing at the water, I see lots of seabirds and the occasional seal. Also, dolphins last summer – that felt like a very good sign. Working with the sea has given me a real appreciation for how essential it is that we protect and preserve our precious marine environments.

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Find out more:

nellkerr.com
@nell_kerr

Out of hours: At the beach with Nick Pumphrey

nick pumphrey

A 5am alarm – sometimes earlier. Pulling on the wetsuit, eyes half closed, as the first faint traces of monochrome light emerge. Rain, hail, raging gales or glassy calm, photographer Nick Pumphrey steps into the sea with his camera every morning while most of us are sleeping. Why? To get creative in the ‘blue hour’, connect with nature, calm his mind and capture the breaking dawn while floating in the waters around his home town of St Ives.

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Nick Pumphrey Credit: Nick Pumphrey

Before the pandemic, Nick travelled the world shooting for publications and brands including National Geographic, The Guardian, Roxy, Surfdome and Wavelength magazine. But immersing himself in the ocean on his doorstep every morning has sparked a new energy and insight he’s eager to share.

As part of our Out of Hours content series, we caught him one morning once he’d dried off, made a coffee and posted his 10 daily ‘Dawn Days’ images to his Instagram account.

Credit: Nick Pumphrey

Dawn Days came about in the early stages of lockdown last year. I wasn’t feeling too good – not myself. I wanted to get rid of the anxieties that were clouding my thoughts. I read a few books on mindfulness and studied the Wim Hof cold water submersion breathing – and I had this idea that sharing pictures of the sea might lift people’s spirits.

There was no real brief, no expectations. I thought, I’ll get in the sea in the dark, see the sunrise, float, photograph whatever’s happening. Then share it. I wanted to keep the whole motive as simple and honest as possible.

I swim with my camera for my own sanity, I swim to share stories with fellow swimmers, I swim to be present and to connect with something much larger than myself. I share images on social media with the hope of inspiring others to be creative and to connect with nature.

Credit: Nick Pumphrey

With the dawn wake-up calls, there’s always a bit of stubbornness, a resistance, there. But ultimately, I know I’ll feel better when I’m up – that it’ll be worth it. Once I’m on my feet and the wetsuit’s on, I’m not tired anymore. I haven’t missed a morning yet this year.

“I swim with my camera for my own sanity, I swim to share stories with fellow swimmers, I swim to be present and to connect with something much larger than myself.”

In the summer, it can be a 4am alarm to be in there for the blue hour. It drives you crazy chasing that first light. You get up and look out, and it’s like, ‘Oh no, it’s getting light already!’

The ‘blue hour’ is the hour before dawn, when you often get the best colours in the sky. I float there, literally just hooting out loud at these incredible colour displays above. You know it’s a good day when you’re hooting while shooting.

Nick Pumphrey Credit: Nick Pumphrey

Various people have joined my dawn swims along the way, and it’s seriously improved their wellbeing. James Hardy – a great surfer, he’s been doing it with me every single day since January. When he started, he couldn’t sleep. He’d had really bad sleeping problems for years, but after 14 days in the sea at sunrise, they disappeared. Then there’s Lydia from Wild Swimming Cornwall. She was battling mental health issues, and then immersion in nature has completely sorted her.

We’ve been out in some pretty wild weather – sleet, snow, wind, big swells. No two days are the same. You’re connecting directly with nature – starting your day positively. Not to mention all the benefits of cold water.

Out of hours Credit: Nick Pumphrey

There was one Dawn Day experience that turned pretty heavy. I was at Godrevy, and there was a heavy sea fog. I couldn’t see the sea, but I could hear it. My ego was saying: ‘I have to do it, people are going to be expecting my 10 photos,’ when of course they’re not really. My gut was telling me no, but I kept going. Even in the water, the current was pushing me back towards shore. Eventually I got out there, but then I got caught in a current, and ended up 100 metres up by the cliffs. I looked in and thought, ‘the beach isn’t there anymore, it’s just a rock face.’ I was alright, the tide was OK and there was enough space for me to climb up and call it a day. But you know, I’m experienced, and I still got caught out. It taught me how important it is to listen to your instincts and respect the sea.

Nick pumphrey Credit: Nick Pumphrey

“The ‘blue hour’ is the hour before dawn, when you often get the best colours in the sky. I float there, literally just hooting out loud at these incredible colour displays above.”

Porthmeor Beach was my playground. We came to St Ives when I was 6 months old, so I’ve spent my life around the sea surrounded by creative folk. I started surfing at 12, and I’m 42 now. I suppose I’m naturally drawn to the water, because I always have this burning desire to be in the sea, or at least close by.

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I’ve wanted to be a photographer for as long as I can remember, but I didn’t have the confidence to go for it at first. So I kept doing the ‘safe’ jobs to bring money in. It was only when I was 35, 36 – that I decided to properly give photography a go, 100%, without any compromise. Over the last 6 years or so, I’ve lived purely off my photography. I really believe if you go with those gut feelings and trust that it will work out, then it probably will.

Credit: Nick Pumphrey

My sea photographs are a combination of intention and experimentation. On dark mornings, I normally start with slow exposure as that lends itself beautifully to the movement – the ‘whoosh’ – of the sea. There are days that don’t look particularly inspiring, but if you take a photo at half a second, or a second even, you get some unexpectedly beautiful results. I move the camera with the wave, take the picture – and give the camera a little jolt, and it just pulls everything up. I love the anticipation, the not knowing exactly how it’s going to turn out. There are no rules.

I enjoy going through my shots once I’m out and dry with a cup of coffee. The coffee, the edit and the music – I love it.

You get some mornings when the sun’s going crazy, the waves are pumping, the light is intense, and you’re just reacting to what’s happening in front of you. They’re the best days – when you’re totally present.

When I do the dawn swims there’s the connection to nature; to the energy of the sea and the power of the sunrise. You’re getting a big dose of natural light into your eyes first thing. These days, it’s usually the opposite, with people waking up and looking straight into a phone screen. I know I used to do that, but not now.

Credit: Nick Pumphrey

“I love the anticipation, the not knowing exactly how the image will turn out. There are no rules.”

There’s been an awakening during this last year. People have realised that being out in nature makes them feel better. Growing your own food, leaving the city – there’s been a huge shift, a move back to our roots. It’s positive, because when you appreciate and understand nature, you want to protect it.

Credit: Nick Pumphrey

We’ve had some incredible encounters with wildlife. Every morning two little seal pups would come up and hang with us. They’re so inquisitive and innocent. I got a photo of one rubbing its head on James’ swim fin! We also witnessed a few gannet feeding frenzies, and schools of dolphins swimming by too.

This morning there was a white sunrise. It had an exotic, hazy feeling. When the sun finally showed itself it was this bright white ball – a bit like the moon. I took a few shots and then just put my camera down and looked at it. It was so peaceful. Really calm, no wind. It was just the oily textures of the sea and this white sun, with its reflection coming straight to me.

I’m not religious, but there’s a spiritual dimension to being in the sea at dawn. It’s like coming back to source, tapping back into how we were, how we’re supposed to be. It’s easy to see life as school, study, get a job, make money, buy a house – but ultimately, we feel at our best when we’re in these natural environments. You absorb energy from nature. It makes sense.

Experience the captivating beauty of dawn and dusk along the Cornish coast, as we compare and contrast these magical moments in nature’s theatre.

Find out more:

nickpumphrey.com
@nickpumphreyphoto
Fine art prints available at nickpumphrey.art