Mevagissey: Secret Season Harbourside
A visit to Mevagissey revolves around its ever-active harbour, but this time of year also brings tranquillity and new sights to this twin harbour’s surroundings. We asked two photographers for their reasons to be by the sea during secret season
© Matt Facey
Mevagissey harbour is one of the oldest fishing ports in the UK, once one of Cornwall’s most successful pilchard fishing villages. In the 1700s smugglers landed illicit French cognac and Dutch gin on the granite quay, which is now overlooked by colourful cottages, independent shops, restaurants and cafés.
While some things change, Mevagissey is still known for the quality of its seafood – and in the cooler months local boats chug out of the harbour in search of their traditional catch of pilchards alongside line-caught mackerel and the occasional haul of squid.
You’ll still find five pubs, an excellent greengrocer, one of the best bakeries around and of course – plenty of opportunity to enjoy locally caught fish and chips.
© Aerial Cornwall
In secret season, this quieter, yet elemental time of year, visitors to Mevagissey can see what life is really like in this traditional Cornish village and working harbour, a view behind the façade of summer crowds. Venture out of the village to find empty beaches and open spaces in a seasonal colour palette.
© Aerial Cornwall
Village life
Drone photographer and self-confessed coastline addict Matthew Burtwell, of Aerial Cornwall, is a fan of Mevagissey because it’s a village for all seasons:
“Mevagissey Harbour is quite large compared to most small village fishing harbours. Some only have a few boats, but Mevagissey always feels busy and full of life, with working fishermen coming and going all the time,” says Matthew.
This working harbour also has a unique layout, captured on film.
© Aerial Cornwall
For Matthew, his secret reason to be by the sea in autumn and winter is the space and quiet.
“It’s a great way to reset. You can explore most places without the crowds and often find a beach all to yourself. Autumn walks along the coast path are my favourite,” he says.
Winter light
Mevagissey-based photographer Matt Facey says that, during the cooler months, he draws inspiration from connecting with friends, “chasing sunrises and sunsets” and “the energy moving through the sea.”
© Matt Facey
He enjoys photographing “the boys in the fishing boats” and using Mevagissey as a launchpad to beach hop from “Charlestown at one end, and Gorran Haven at the other end, and down to Pendower.”
When we ask Matt what his secret reason is to be by the sea at this time of year, he says that “the coast in the winter opens out into what feels like limitless space.”
“The light improves as the sun is lower in the sky and the colours change, adding yellows, browns and grey,” he adds.
© Matt Facey
And, for Matt, it’s “a good time to explore new places in Cornwall” with quieter roads, car parks and beaches.
Exploring Mevagissey and its surrounds
From Mevagissey, explore neighbouring beaches on the southern waters of St Austell Bay and neighbouring villages – all part of the South Coast Eastern section of the Cornwall National Landscape.
During this time of year, the sea is full of energy and at their most awe-inspiring.
Not to be missed are the 18th century Georgian harbour and UNESCO World Heritage site at Charlestown, the sandy shores of Pendower Beach and the neighbouring fishing village Gorran Haven.
The neighbouring village of Charlestown
A few miles further, on the other side of Dodman Point, the idyllic stretch of Hemmick Beach sits just off the South West Coast Path. Below is an extract of a poem about Hemmick by Pete Chambers – that once featured on Radio 4’s Today programme:
“Winter beach with a storm froth
Foam scuzz, rope tangled, weed knot, flotsam
Driftwood and a dan flag,
Mermaid’s purse, cuttlefish bones and a bottle from Japan”
…
“Sunset of the shortest day
Ice cold, blood red west wind
Black clouds racing,
Tendrils of sleet and the sea white veils”
© Matt Facey
Find your secret reason to be by the sea. Browse our south coast retreats near Mevagissey.
