Secret Season: Carbis Bay

In summer, Carbis Bay is a tropical daydream – turquoise water, pale sand and sun-soaked days that stretch long into the evening. But visit during the Secret Season and this south-west-facing bay reveals a quieter kind of magic.

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The clifftops take on warm auburn tones, the sea shimmers in softer shades of light blue, and the crowds thin, leaving space for wildlife to return to the shoreline. Cormorants perch on rocks and seals bob just offshore. The iconic railway line curves dramatically along the cliffs, framing the bay as trains gently come and go all year round.

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Wrap up warm and begin the day with a coastal walk towards St Ives. The coast path follows the route of the railway, passing above Porthminster Beach with uninterrupted views of the vivid winter sea below. It’s around a half-hour walk, gentle but invigorating, with the option to hop on the train back if you fancy resting your legs while enjoying the view from the window.

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Arriving in St Ives, spend time wandering the harbourfront streets where stylish independent shops sit alongside historic buildings. Salt Society is a must-visit, a beautifully curated concept store filled with coastal lifestyle pieces and clothing. Art lovers are spoilt for choice here, with countless galleries and workshops dotted throughout the town.

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A Secret Season visit is the perfect time to explore Tate St Ives without the summer crowds. Perched above Porthmeor Beach, the gallery is a destination in its own right.

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Current exhibitions include immersive film installations by Emilija Škarnulytė, exploring oceans, myth and endangered landscapes – but there’s always something thought-provoking to discover within its striking walls.

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Pause for coffee at Yallah, or pick up something warm and freshly baked from St Ives Bakery.

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For lunch, Talay Thai and the Rum & Crab Shack are both favourites, though the town’s food scene offers endless choice.

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As the light softens, head back to Carbis Bay. The Beach Club Restaurant is just as inviting in winter, with expansive sea views and a comforting seasonal menu – think seafood pasta, warming curries or classic hake and chips.

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For evening dining, Walter’s on the Beach offers beautifully presented small plates, creative cocktails and live jazz nights on the last Friday of every month.

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Next door, The Deli is perfect for browsing local treats, grabbing a coffee or keeping things relaxed with a casual bite.

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Carbis Bay in winter is calm, atmospheric and quietly spectacular – a place to slow down, breathe deeply and experience the coast at its most soulful.

Stay by the shore at Carbis Bay